Norman D. Landing

[General Apathy]

.

holiday issues,

 

whenever people go on holidays they nearly always feel sorry for the strays they see in the streets. My Jeeping friend spotted this stray MUTT while passing through the Mekong Delta. I suggested they should rescue it and take it home, much to his wife’s annoyance !!!!!!

 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, February 26  2025.

….

[earlymb]

Other than the grill it looks to be in original, good condition but I don't know much about M151's. It could have come from Thailand, but it's nice to see a good example in Vietnam.

 

I have been looking into going to Vietnam myself, but I have no schedule yet. Just compiling information on what there is to do/see and where. The flight is actually pretty cheap, and hotels and food are still very affordable... for now 🤭

[Johan Willaert]

While on the road to visit my daughter yesterday I stopped by the communal cemetery of EEKLO, Belgium to visit the grave of Karel (Charles) Roegiers.
Roegiers, Belgian born, immigrated to the US in 1920, became a US citizen and enlisted in the US Army at age 32.
He was killed on 17th December 1944 during the Battle of the Bulge and per his family's request was buried in his birthplace in 1948.
Just another sad story from WW2

Read more:  https://aomda.org/nl/node/43981

 

[General Apathy]

.

My daughters wedding . . . . . . .

 

my daughter and son-in-law discovered a couple of days ago that one of their wedding photographs was being used in an advertisement by the hotel where they were married.  As ownership of the copyright of photographs remains with the photographer then it was out of their hands, but maybe just accept that the hotel considered the photograph worthy of being used in their advertisement.

 

 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 01  2025.

 

...

[General Apathy]

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Another wall hanger . . . . . . 

 

Last week looking through storage I re-found one of two CJ5 Jeep grilles I saved from wrecked Jeeps I bought back in the late 70's to break for spares for the CJ5 I owned.  

I decided it would be better suited hanging on the garage wall rather than hidden away. 

 

 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 01  2025.

 

 

[mikie]

1 hour ago, General Apathy said:

.

Another wall hanger . . . . . . 

 

Last week looking through storage I re-found one of two CJ5 Jeep grilles I saved from wrecked Jeeps I bought back in the late 70's to break for spares for the CJ5 I owned.  

I decided it would be better suited hanging on the garage wall rather than hidden away. 

 

 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 01  2025.

 

 

Neat! It would be cool to wire up the headlights!

mikie

[earlymb]

The last few weeks I've been plodding on with the jeep with nothing major to report; mainly cleaning up, stripping and priming area's and welding up lots of holes, small patches etc.

 

I have sorted out on of my pet peeves though; a visible weld line at the rear of the floor just in front of the rear seat between the shock towers. The rear of the floor had to be replaced 30 years ago but they used a lap joint (one sheet slightly overlapping the other, giving a visible weld) instead of a butt joint where the edges of the metal lay next to each other and the seam is welded shut meaning it can be ground flush and becomes invisible. The rear floor is a single piece originally so a visible weld joint is incorrect. From the top the weld is gone, but at the bottom I didn't grind it flush so the joint retains its full strength. This the result (unfortunately I don't seem to have a photo of the visible seam):

 

 

 

Sometime during her life she got some accident damage to the left rear corner of the body, nothing major but it did require some hammering and some body filler to take the worst dents out. I don't mind if you can see the body is 83 years old but this damage was just a bit too much to leave as is. Previously it was nice and smooth under the thick coat of filler; too thick to my taste. Here it is during one of the stages of applying filler, letting it dry, sand everything smooth, apply some more filler to a few low spots and repeat. The area is now primed and coming weekend I'll check if it is ready for the first coat of OD or some more work is required.

 

 

 

I'm also continuing preparing the small parts in between the bigger jobs; last Saturday I cleaned and lubed the original locks of the rear lockers. They function just fine and are ready to go back in. These work on the standard H700 key that literally anyone can buy from parts vendors...

 

 

 

No photo's but the dashboard is stripped of all paint now and is ready for a coat of primer. Slowly but surely we approach the point where we can clean the bottom of the floor, both sides of the firewall and the dashboard for the first coat of OD paint. 🥰

 

When the underside of the floor is done we'll start with the rolling frame, that requires some work to the front horns. It will need some replacement metal and welding, and 4 new rivets for the upper bumper gussets. Unfortunately while these can be found in the correct size here, I would have to buy at least 100. So we got 4 bolts with heads a bit bigger than the correct diameter of the head of the original rivets (16.7mm). My friend then turned them to half domes on his lathe; this was quite a time-consuming job but I think they came out amazing!

 

 

 

 

They will replace the carriage bolts I have now, which are both too big in diameter and too flat. The threaded sections will be cut off, the rest trimmed to length and then I'll weld the from the underside as it will be an optical repair only.

[cutiger83]

8 hours ago, earlymb said:

The last few weeks I've been plodding on with the jeep with nothing major to report; mainly cleaning up, stripping and priming area's and welding up lots of holes, small patches etc.

 

I have sorted out on of my pet peeves though; a visible weld line at the rear of the floor just in front of the rear seat between the shock towers. The rear of the floor had to be replaced 30 years ago but they used a lap joint (one sheet slightly overlapping the other, giving a visible weld) instead of a butt joint where the edges of the metal lay next to each other and the seam is welded shut meaning it can be ground flush and becomes invisible. The rear floor is a single piece originally so a visible weld joint is incorrect. From the top the weld is gone, but at the bottom I didn't grind it flush so the joint retains its full strength. This the result (unfortunately I don't seem to have a photo of the visible seam):

 

 

 

Sometime during her life she got some accident damage to the left rear corner of the body, nothing major but it did require some hammering and some body filler to take the worst dents out. I don't mind if you can see the body is 83 years old but this damage was just a bit too much to leave as is. Previously it was nice and smooth under the thick coat of filler; too thick to my taste. Here it is during one of the stages of applying filler, letting it dry, sand everything smooth, apply some more filler to a few low spots and repeat. The area is now primed and coming weekend I'll check if it is ready for the first coat of OD or some more work is required.

 

 

 

I'm also continuing preparing the small parts in between the bigger jobs; last Saturday I cleaned and lubed the original locks of the rear lockers. They function just fine and are ready to go back in. These work on the standard H700 key that literally anyone can buy from parts vendors...

 

 

 

No photo's but the dashboard is stripped of all paint now and is ready for a coat of primer. Slowly but surely we approach the point where we can clean the bottom of the floor, both sides of the firewall and the dashboard for the first coat of OD paint. 🥰

 

When the underside of the floor is done we'll start with the rolling frame, that requires some work to the front horns. It will need some replacement metal and welding, and 4 new rivets for the upper bumper gussets. Unfortunately while these can be found in the correct size here, I would have to buy at least 100. So we got 4 bolts with heads a bit bigger than the correct diameter of the head of the original rivets (16.7mm). My friend then turned them to half domes on his lathe; this was quite a time-consuming job but I think they came out amazing!

 

 

 

 

They will replace the carriage bolts I have now, which are both too big in diameter and too flat. The threaded sections will be cut off, the rest trimmed to length and then I'll weld the from the underside as it will be an optical repair only.

Fascinating! Thanks so much for posting these....

 

...Kat

[General Apathy]

On 3/2/2025 at 12:45 AM, mikie said:

Neat! It would be cool to wire up the headlights!

mikie

.

Hi mikie,   not that I need any walking aids, but someone could take this idea and make a Jeep version with working headlights and indicators  . . . . . . . 🤣 🤣 🤣 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 04  2025.

 

...

[General Apathy]

.

Drop tank racer . . . . . . . .

 

Great photo of a drop tank racer and aircraft 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 04  2025.

 

...

[General Apathy]

On 3/3/2025 at 11:43 AM, earlymb said:

The last few weeks I've been plodding on with the jeep with nothing major to report; mainly cleaning up, stripping and priming area's and welding up lots of holes, small patches etc.

 

I have sorted out on of my pet peeves though; a visible weld line at the rear of the floor just in front of the rear seat between the shock towers. The rear of the floor had to be replaced 30 years ago but they used a lap joint (one sheet slightly overlapping the other, giving a visible weld) instead of a butt joint where the edges of the metal lay next to each other and the seam is welded shut meaning it can be ground flush and becomes invisible. The rear floor is a single piece originally so a visible weld joint is incorrect. From the top the weld is gone, but at the bottom I didn't grind it flush so the joint retains its full strength. This the result (unfortunately I don't seem to have a photo of the visible seam):

 

 

 

Sometime during her life she got some accident damage to the left rear corner of the body, nothing major but it did require some hammering and some body filler to take the worst dents out. I don't mind if you can see the body is 83 years old but this damage was just a bit too much to leave as is. Previously it was nice and smooth under the thick coat of filler; too thick to my taste. Here it is during one of the stages of applying filler, letting it dry, sand everything smooth, apply some more filler to a few low spots and repeat. The area is now primed and coming weekend I'll check if it is ready for the first coat of OD or some more work is required.

 

 

 

I'm also continuing preparing the small parts in between the bigger jobs; last Saturday I cleaned and lubed the original locks of the rear lockers. They function just fine and are ready to go back in. These work on the standard H700 key that literally anyone can buy from parts vendors...

 

 

 

No photo's but the dashboard is stripped of all paint now and is ready for a coat of primer. Slowly but surely we approach the point where we can clean the bottom of the floor, both sides of the firewall and the dashboard for the first coat of OD paint. 🥰

 

When the underside of the floor is done we'll start with the rolling frame, that requires some work to the front horns. It will need some replacement metal and welding, and 4 new rivets for the upper bumper gussets. Unfortunately while these can be found in the correct size here, I would have to buy at least 100. So we got 4 bolts with heads a bit bigger than the correct diameter of the head of the original rivets (16.7mm). My friend then turned them to half domes on his lathe; this was quite a time-consuming job but I think they came out amazing!

 

 

 

 

They will replace the carriage bolts I have now, which are both too big in diameter and too flat. The threaded sections will be cut off, the rest trimmed to length and then I'll weld the from the underside as it will be an optical repair only.

.

hi earlymb,

 

great to see that the restoration is striding  ahead and thanks for sharing your work and project and dedication to the rebuild with us.  

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 04  2025.

[earlymb]

2 hours ago, General Apathy said:

.

Drop tank racer . . . . . . . .

 

Great photo of a drop tank racer and aircraft 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 04  2025.

 

...

 

I wonder what chassis they fabricated for it, as the drop tank itself is obviously just the body, and what engine they used (most likely from a motorcycle I guess). It look very well made, but most aviation units will have the knowledge, skills and tools to build something like this. It looks like fun to drive, and in the UK in the 1950's there was a racing class specially for home-made race cars like this. They still race at historic racing events.

 

 

1 hour ago, General Apathy said:

.

hi earlymb,

 

great to see that the restoration is striding  ahead and thanks for sharing your work and project and dedication to the rebuild with us.  

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 04  2025.

 

Thanks Ken!

 

I need to weld in the rear stone guard for the tank against the front or the rear wheel housing, just above the sump. Then, after final sanding and cleaning, I'll spray the underside of the tub, both sides of the firewall and the dashboard with 2-3 layers of MAT 1, followed by 1 or 2 layers of the brick sealer (obviously with some time between coats to dry).

 

The first fresh parts going back on will be the rubber grommets in the firewall, the oil can holder and the most useless part ever fitted to a jeep: the cardboard isolation on the inside of the firewall. After this I can fit the main wire loom and the various switches and set aside the body to work on the frame. The sides and inside of the tub can be stripped, cleaned, primed and painted when the body is bolted back on the frame.

 

When most of the parts (fenders, hood, grill etc.) are back on I'll give it another, overall coat (or maybe 2) of MAT 1. I won't do the factory-correct overspray under the hood, as I just don't like how that looks.

[Johan Willaert]

3 hours ago, earlymb said:

The first fresh parts going back on will be the rubber grommets in the firewall, the oil can holder and the most useless part ever fitted to a jeep: the cardboard isolation on the inside of the firewall. After this I can fit the main wire loom and the various switches and set aside the body to work on the frame. The sides and inside of the tub can be stripped, cleaned, primed and painted when the body is bolted back on the frame.

 

Contrary to GPW bodies and ACM2 bodies, the ACM1 body has no or nearly no caged nuts on the inside of the firewall.
This means that once the firewall padding is installed, it will no longer be possible to attach the nuts to the different screws that hold things like horn bracket, junction blocks, oil can holderand others.... Make sure you install those before the padding...

Below the correct holes on the firewall of an ACM1 Willys MB body

 

 

[mikie]

6 hours ago, General Apathy said:

.

Drop tank racer . . . . . . . .

 

Great photo of a drop tank racer and aircraft 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 04  2025.

 

...

Out of LIKEs so 👍 !

It just so happens that I saw this a few days ago…

[mikie]

Not military but the new kiddie ride at the amusement park near my office just about finished, along with the luxury bathroom facilities! 
It looks like a lot of fun! 
mikie

[earlymb]

9 hours ago, Johan Willaert said:

 

Contrary to GPW bodies and ACM2 bodies, the ACM1 body has no or nearly no caged nuts on the inside of the firewall.
This means that once the firewall padding is installed, it will no longer be possible to attach the nuts to the different screws that hold things like horn bracket, junction blocks, oil can holderand others.... Make sure you install those before the padding...

Below the correct holes on the firewall of an ACM1 Willys MB body

 

 

 

Hi Johan,

 

thanks, I didn't mention all those parts but you are right they have to go on first; they are already cleaned and in their first coat of OD. I think there are no caged nuts at all on the inside of the firewall.

[earlymb]

On a side note, the horn- and air cleaner brackets were all fitted to the firewall with their original 'TR20'-marked bolts that I have cleaned and chased. The heads will get 1 or 2 coats of OD once in place but no primer, as these brackets were fitted after the body was primed but before the first coat of OD. I think they have never been removed from the body before,

[General Apathy]

.

Latest find . . . . . . . . .

 

John is coming to the end of their south-East Asia tour and in the last few days spotted this left behind US truck in the street, the hood was up and he took a shot of the engine currently in it, uncertain if this is the original or a replacement, post WWII vehicles are outside our experience.  

I mailed him saying it was just what he needed for their supermarket runs in London and he should build a larger garage.

 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 06  2025.

 

[earlymb]

No idea if it's the original multi-fuel turbo engine either, but at least it does look well maintained. These things are called 'Whistlers' for a reason, but they are pretty fast for army trucks 🤭

 

And now an example why you can never be sure of the original hood number of your Willys MB jeep, unless you find it on your hood and said hood is original to your jeep. The scan below comes from a 1946 US Government Surplus Vehicle Sale with hundreds of military vehicles being sold off to the public (with veterans having preference). The vehicles listed range from scooters to jeeps to trucks to trailers, randomly put in there together with the fixed purchase price (no auction). Almost all vehicles seem to be pre-1944 and possibly never left the continental US during the war. The best part is though that each listing includes both the frame (VIN) number and the military registration (hood) number:

 

 

4 of these Willys MB's are close to mine (110247) and more importantly, very close to each other. MB's 110507 and 110539 are only 32 units apart, but their hood numbers are 84 apart. MB's 111567 and 111683 are 124 units apart, but the hood numbers are only 29 apart...

 

This can be explained by the way the hood numbers were applied at the factory; driven off the production line and parked in rows outside where painters would apply the numbers. Nobody cared if these numbers were applied in chronological order (FIFO) or from what side the painters started the line. Add to that that finished jeeps were regularly sent back to fix small issues and the best you can hope for when using the hood numbers of other jeeps with a close frame number is a ball-park; the situation I'm in myself. It would be absolutely amazing if I would ever find the surplus listing of my own jeep 😍

 

How many jeeps would you buy for around $550.00 each? 😆

[General Apathy]

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hi early mb,   

 

thanks an interesting piece of information, when jeeps were auctioned off in the UK post war the auctions were run by private companies, and they were either unknowledgeable or lazy in their identification of vehicle details, very often they identified and registered Jeeps from the hood numbers and the frame numbers were never applied to official documents registered at the government vehicle department. 

For many years I had a Jeep which had obviously been registered and identified by the hood numbers which never really caused any problem during the 70's and 80's . That is until it became a requirement of law at the annual roadworthy test to verify the frame number against the the number on the registered paperwork.  I sold one Jeep to a guy on the Isle of Jersey in the Channel Islands, as a new arrival it had to be inspected by an official of the transport department where the mis-matched numbers came to light.  The purchaser of the Jeep asked me to explain why the numbers didn't match, I composed a letter for him explaining the auction actions during the 1950's supported with photographs and this was accepted by the Jersey transport department and the paperwork adjusted accordingly.  

 

The US prices shown on your paperwork seem quite high around the $500 mark,  I don't have any details of prices achieved during the 1950's auctions in the UK but used Jeeps could be easily found in the 1970's for 50 - 100 pounds, hence the reason I bought several at that time.  My slat-grille was 35 pounds off a garage forecourt around 1972 when they discontinued using it.  

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 06  2025.

 

 

[General Apathy]

On 2/26/2025 at 10:57 AM, General Apathy said:

.

holiday issues,

 

whenever people go on holidays they nearly always feel sorry for the strays they see in the streets. My Jeeping friend spotted this stray MUTT while passing through the Mekong Delta. I suggested they should rescue it and take it home, much to his wife’s annoyance !!!!!!

 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, February 26  2025.

….

.

hopefully a Wikipedia link to the details of the Ford M151 & M151-A2, known as the ' MUTT ',  this includes details as to why they were often chopped in half at disposal and not sold to the general public as previous Jeep had been sold. 

 

https://w.wiki/DKLd

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 06  2025.

 

...

[LtRGFRANK]

On 3/4/2025 at 4:16 AM, General Apathy said:

.

Hi mikie,   not that I need any walking aids, but someone could take this idea and make a Jeep version with working headlights and indicators  . . . . . . . 🤣 🤣 🤣 

 

 

Norman D. Landing, Forum Normandy Correspondent, March 04  2025.

need a jeep grill for my wheelchair

...

 

[solcarlus]

On 2/10/2025 at 10:13 PM, Johan Willaert said:

 

Here's one I occasionally carry on the back of the Jeep...

 

 

Bonjour.

 

While doing a little tidying up, I rediscovered this jerry can. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mikie]

Ok, since jerrycans seem to be the topic of the day, I saw this one at a flea market last weekend. Too much junk in the way for me to get a close look at it. I have no idea if you can deduce anything from just this picture. 
mikie

[earlymb]

I would say it looks to be in pretty good condition, with original paint. To further assess it you'd need to check if the inside is clean and the bottom for the date and rust holes. They are great collectables but do take up some space.