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Proud Kraut, January 22, 2012 in MODELING
That looks great!
rubber cement works in place of the salt as well. dab it on, let dry, paint, then rub away the rubber cement after your OD is dry.
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That is an amazing technique. Never heard of it before. Glad I checked out the post, can't wait to try it. Thank you for the info.
I gain more respect for modelers every time I see these techniques. Great work!
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Thank you both very much @4thMissCav: Would be great to see the result of your work here as well!
I don't know how I missed this......Brilliant! That chipped paint looks terrific, thanks for sharing the information.
Great job buddy.
That was interesting the way you showed the steps. Makes me wonder how something finer, like talcum powder, would work, in place of salt.
520th Transportation Bn., Phu Loi, RVN
Excellent description. Another good tool for producing pinhole chips and fading from paint to rust is a stiff nylon flat brush and lightly pushing into the surface at an angle. A word of caution, use minimal water to loosen up the top layer of acrylic paint or you can leave water spots and light and dark spots that will need to be blended back in to the top color. The beauty of acrylics is that you can play with the top layer by carefully using water for blending ,chipping,and edging rust.
Great technique. I love the look of the blade, you did a great texture with the bare metal that I'd never seen anyone get so accurately before
You can do similar things with rubber cement for chipping paint, dotted onto the base coat and then you use masking tape to pull up the paint where it landed on the rubber cement. It works really well on wood surfaces:
Lee Bishop Formerly known as "Ratchet 5" with the 2nd Infantry Division (yes, in REAL life)
US WW2 War Correspondent collector
I like how you explained the process and included pictures. I like the end result, excellent!
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