Jump to content
Proud Kraut

Creating Mud Effects with Pigments

Recommended Posts

MIG products are so seductive.....great job!


I collect items from The Battle of Iwo Jima (1945).

Top Iwo Jima Items I'm Looking For:

1) IDed 5th MarDiv Corpsman Jumper or Forest Green Coat.

2) IDed Coast Guard Navy Jumper

3) IDed CB's Sea Bee's Navy Jumper

4) IDed 147th Infantry Regiment Army Service Coat

5) IDed 32nd ID Army Service Coat (Occupation Kyushu with 5th MarDiv).

I am always looking for named and dated WWII USMC Forest Green wool alpha jackets/coats from the 5th Marine Division or other units who participated in the battle.

My Blog "Marines In Forest Green" http://marinesinfore...n.blogspot.com/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tips, Wayne.

It sure makes me wanna try modelmaking again. :)

Would love to have an M18 and M10 in 1/35th scale on display.

 

Erwin


704th Tank Destroyer Battalion

 

donation2009.gifdonation2010.gif

donation2011.gifdonation2012.gifdonation2013.gif

donation2014.gifdonation2015.gifdonation2016.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for the tips, Wayne.

It sure makes me wanna try modelmaking again. :)

Would love to have an M18 and M10 in 1/35th scale on display.

 

Erwin

 

Best M10 right now is the AFV Club one. Lots of ejector marks to deal with, but not bad once you get her cleaned up. Of the two M18s on the market (AFV club and Academy) I have the Academy kit and am quite pleased with the fit and details. Both kits have short comings... but will build up into a good representation of the Hellcat. Best to look at any reviews you can find on them to make your choice. I have the AFV club M10, the Academy Hellcat, and the AFV Club M36 Jackson. Keep in mind that the hulls of the M10 and M36 are for the earlier versions only, not the later versions with the GAA engine. For my M36 I got a resin kit to replace the hull. The really good thing about the AFV club kits is they come with a nice turned aluminum barrel that you build into the gun... they made it with a spring recoil system, though I dont know why unless you would want to build the gun in a full recoil state as if it were firing. If you do start modeling again, let us see!!!

 

Wayne


Freedom isnt free... it must be paid for. Too often it is paid for by the blood of patriots. For those who have paid their share, Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks everybody for your kind feedback! I have a lot of fun doing a bit modeling again but even more discussing it here with that great community, thanks again!

 

 

Dont forget to get some "Weight" on those tracks. The are very heavy and always appear to "FLOAT" on models. I use piano wire drilled into the lower hull. Let them stick out onto the tracks about half way. Set them between the boggies.

Looks great though.

 

100% agreed! Very good hint, will try that as well! Thank you!


donation2007.gifdonation2008.gifdonation2009.gifdonation2010.gifdonation2011.gifdonation2012.gif
donation2014.gifdonation2015.gifdonation2016.gifdonation2017.gifdonation2018.gifdonation2019.gifdonation2020.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
In keeping with the theme of this thread, I would think that heavier mud could be built up with pigments however that might be a serious waste of pigment. There is a material called Celluclay that you can get at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby or Michaels... you mix it up with water and use it for heavier mud, then layer the pigments over the top of that, saving your pigments. I've heard of drywall spackle being used as well. Whatever you do, stay away from using modelling putties such as Squadron green or white putty and the testors putty, as these contain Toluene, a solvent that will attack and soften the plastic. These products are good for filling small gaps, but will destroy a model if used in larger quantities.

 

Wayne

 

Wayne, you are absolutely right! Doing a little research on it, I learned that there are many variants of creating heavy mud. Some people use real earth, sawdust or sand, I even found a mix with coffee (sic) online. Thanks for the head up regarding putty!

 

Lars


donation2007.gifdonation2008.gifdonation2009.gifdonation2010.gifdonation2011.gifdonation2012.gif
donation2014.gifdonation2015.gifdonation2016.gifdonation2017.gifdonation2018.gifdonation2019.gifdonation2020.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Wayne, you are absolutely right! Doing a little research on it, I learned that there are many variants of creating heavy mud. Some people use real earth, sawdust or sand, I even found a mix with coffee (sic) online. Thanks for the head up regarding putty!

 

Lars

 

I've even seen ground work done by mixing Elmers glue with real dirt... You are really only limited by your imagination!

 

Wayne


Freedom isnt free... it must be paid for. Too often it is paid for by the blood of patriots. For those who have paid their share, Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input. I already had some structure past that I brushed on the kit to achieve a more dirty look.

Pigm1.jpg


donation2007.gifdonation2008.gifdonation2009.gifdonation2010.gifdonation2011.gifdonation2012.gif
donation2014.gifdonation2015.gifdonation2016.gifdonation2017.gifdonation2018.gifdonation2019.gifdonation2020.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Outstanding work. I hope you don't mind me trying out these tricks on the M5 I got on ebay the other day!


Looking for the following:

452nd and 447th Bomb Group items

Anything 12th Armored- especially uniforms

155th Assault Helicopter Company, Camp Coryell, or Ban Me Thuot Vietnam items[/center]


WWII US Navy Uniforms from the Battle Off Samar: USS Johnston DD-557, USS Hoel DD-553, USS Samuel B. Roberts DE-413, USS Heermann DD-532, USS Dennis DE-405, USS John C. Butler DE-339, USS Raymond DE-341, USS Fanshaw Bay St. Lo, White Plains, Kalinin Bay, Kitkun Bay and Gambier Bay...


donation2011.gifdonation2013.gifdonation2019.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use Liquitex Ceramic stucco artist acrylic paste. can be pre tinted with acrylic paints and has a Sandy gritty texture. they have a range of texture gel pastes depending on what you want to do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great tips. For pigments, I just buy multi colored chalk sets and use an exactoknife to scrap of as much as I need into powder form. Might be a pain if you needed a lot though.



donation2013.gifdonation2014.gifdonation2015.gifdonation2016.gifdonation2018.gif

donation2017.gif



		

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, thats amazing. I might have to try it.

 

-Dave


Collecting WWI 26th Division Machine Gun and Infantry related Helmets, Equipment, Groupings, Photos and Dog Tags!


donation2015.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, thats amazing. I might have to try it.

 

-Dave

 

Dave, it would be great to see your results here!

 

Lars


donation2007.gifdonation2008.gifdonation2009.gifdonation2010.gifdonation2011.gifdonation2012.gif
donation2014.gifdonation2015.gifdonation2016.gifdonation2017.gifdonation2018.gifdonation2019.gifdonation2020.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Give me a few weeks on mine! I'm going to get my Stuart started right after my kids are done with football.


Looking for the following:

452nd and 447th Bomb Group items

Anything 12th Armored- especially uniforms

155th Assault Helicopter Company, Camp Coryell, or Ban Me Thuot Vietnam items[/center]


WWII US Navy Uniforms from the Battle Off Samar: USS Johnston DD-557, USS Hoel DD-553, USS Samuel B. Roberts DE-413, USS Heermann DD-532, USS Dennis DE-405, USS John C. Butler DE-339, USS Raymond DE-341, USS Fanshaw Bay St. Lo, White Plains, Kalinin Bay, Kitkun Bay and Gambier Bay...


donation2011.gifdonation2013.gifdonation2019.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Give me a few weeks on mine! I'm going to get my Stuart started right after my kids are done with football.

 

...and we would like to see this project from the beginning! So why not start your step by step Stuart thread today?


donation2007.gifdonation2008.gifdonation2009.gifdonation2010.gifdonation2011.gifdonation2012.gif
donation2014.gifdonation2015.gifdonation2016.gifdonation2017.gifdonation2018.gifdonation2019.gifdonation2020.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All in due time. All I've done is remove the shrink wrap! I might make it a father-son deal, as one of my boys liked the M3 Medium tank and I got him the model for his birthday. His name is Grant, and since the British version with their turret was the Grant, that's his favorite tank.


Looking for the following:

452nd and 447th Bomb Group items

Anything 12th Armored- especially uniforms

155th Assault Helicopter Company, Camp Coryell, or Ban Me Thuot Vietnam items[/center]


WWII US Navy Uniforms from the Battle Off Samar: USS Johnston DD-557, USS Hoel DD-553, USS Samuel B. Roberts DE-413, USS Heermann DD-532, USS Dennis DE-405, USS John C. Butler DE-339, USS Raymond DE-341, USS Fanshaw Bay St. Lo, White Plains, Kalinin Bay, Kitkun Bay and Gambier Bay...


donation2011.gifdonation2013.gifdonation2019.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to see a lot of those same tips in modelling magazines. Seems the only difference is there are more products out now specifically FOR modelling. Done right, you CAN get some realistic effects. The thing to remember is, when you add some of the same to the upper surfaces, imagine that you are 4 inches tall and think where YOU would step on the hull and turret, and where you wouldn't, to get to and into the hatches, or to objects stashed on the hull or turret sides. Don't put a bunch of muck where nobody would likely stand or step, but DO put some where you'd climb up OUT of the muck.

 

Then again, there are some places and situations where you really can't tell...

 

post-156975-0-42201600-1421204678.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the other hand, there are times when all you want is an accumulation of road dust from just getting from A to B. Believe it or not, you can do that with nothing more than a rattlecan of spray paint. It needs a light touch on the button and care where you aim, but I just got good results on a KV85 with a can of Rustoleum Camo Sand.

 

post-156975-0-89768900-1421276960.jpg

 

post-156975-0-16478100-1421277035.jpg

 

post-156975-0-74967800-1421277074.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It started out with plain green, also rattlecan Italian Olive, like the JSU152 beside it. Was WAY too shiny for anything but a museum piece, so I tried this just to see what would happen.

post-156975-0-94464100-1421277899.jpg

 

As you can see, it worked fine!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good result! I've heard from another modeler here at the USMF that light pink spray paint will work as well. I will test ist with the T19 definitively. BTW, what's a rattlecan, please?


donation2007.gifdonation2008.gifdonation2009.gifdonation2010.gifdonation2011.gifdonation2012.gif
donation2014.gifdonation2015.gifdonation2016.gifdonation2017.gifdonation2018.gifdonation2019.gifdonation2020.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think a can with metal balls in it that mix the paint when you shake it.

So it "rattles".

 

Erwin


704th Tank Destroyer Battalion

 

donation2009.gifdonation2010.gif

donation2011.gifdonation2012.gifdonation2013.gif

donation2014.gifdonation2015.gifdonation2016.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

rattlecan = spraypaint

 

slang term. ;)

-Brian


GOT SEABEE ITEMS? PM ME!

donation2013.gifdonation2014.gifdonation2015.gifdonation2016.gif

donation2017.gif

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.