Renaissance Wax question.

[AAF_Collection]

I have heard many good things about Ren Wax but having never used it I have a question,what effect does water have on the wax? in other words if I use it on a metal item which I expect to be exposed to water will it change colour as some other wax products go milky white when exposed to water/damp?.

 

Thanks,

 

Matt.

[doyler]

I have yet to use the product but from reading about the product it is resistant to water and alcohol,finger prints etc.

[Old Marine]

Hi Matt,

 

I have used Ren Wax on some of my collection items and I haven't noticed any problems. As for it reacting to water I actually used it on my grimy, old everyday wrist watch and pocket knife. They have both gotten rained on, sweat on and dunked in water and I have never seen any problems. The wax on the pocket knife and watch seems to really help repel water and I have never seen any of that milky whiteness. I think it's good stuff.

 

Dennis

[Jack's Son]

..... it is resistant to water and alcohol.......

Now RD, let's NOT go too far!!

[Bluehawk]

Renaissance Wax is used to help preserve outdoor sculpture in bronze, aluminum, steel etc. - hence, subject to every kind of weather condition.

 

It is possibly the finest most durable effective finish that can be imagined.

 

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=R...ved=0CG0Q8wIwAA

[AAF_Collection]

Thanks all for the advice,I will buy one of the small pots to try it out but it sounds ideal.

[3rdeye]

Its good for metal items,,but I wouldnt use it on wood or leather products,, I know it says its safe t do so,,and folks do it,,

but take a whiff of it when you open the tin,,,its smells like it has petroleum products in it,,,,and therefore I wouldnt use it on wood or leather

just my humble opinion

[Bluehawk]

"Ren Wax" is just a brand name, there are several manufacturers.

 

It is true that microcrystalline wax is derived from petroleum processing. Here is a relatively plain English wiki-description:

 

"Microcrystalline waxes are a type of wax produced by de-oiling petrolatum, as part of the petroleum refining process. In contrast to the more familiar paraffin wax which contains mostly unbranched alkanes, microcrystalline wax contains a higher percentage of isoparaffinic (branched) hydrocarbons and naphthenic hydrocarbons. It is characterized by the fineness of its crystals in contrast to the larger crystal of paraffin wax. It consists of high molecular weight saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons. It is generally darker, more viscous, denser, tackier and more elastic than paraffin waxes, and has a higher molecular weight and melting point. The elastic and adhesive characteristics of microcrystalline waxes are related to the non-straight chain components which they contain. Typical microcrystalline wax crystal structure is small and thin, making them more flexible than paraffin wax. It is commonly used in cosmetic formulations.

 

Microcrystalline waxes when produced by wax refiners are typically produced to meet a number of ASTM specifications. These include congeal point (ASTM D938), needle penetration (D1321), color (ASTM D6045), and viscosity (ASTM D445). Microcrystalline waxes can generally be put into two categories: "laminating" grades and "hardening" grades. The laminating grades typically have a melt point of 140-175 F and needle penetration of 25 or above. The hardening grades will range from about 175-200 F, and have a needle penetration of 25 or below. Color in both grades can range from brown to white, depending on the degree of processing done at the refinery level.

 

Microcrystalline waxes are derived from the refining of the heavy distillates from lubricant oil production. This by product then must be de-oiled at a wax refinery. Depending on the end use and desired specification, the product then may have its odor removed and color removed(which typically starts as a brown or dark yellow). This is usually done by means of a filtration method or by hydro-treating the wax material."

 

I wouldn't use it on artifact-grade leather, wood or paper either. Other than for artifacts, however, it is a sure bet for preservation at the highest available level.

[normaninvasion]

I have been using ren wax for about 6 months and swear by it. I can not stress enough to use very very little, it does go a long way. I use it on painted helmets with a smooth finish. Do not use on textured lids, seems to produce a white build up. I have also used it on blackned leather, visor brims, with good results. However, plain tanned leather also seems to leave a white build up.

[AAF_Collection]

Thanks for the info. Normaninvasion that is useful to know as I was considering using it on some items which have original paint and rust putting,I wonder now if I might end up with the white build up you mention?.

 

Matt.

[normaninvasion]

Thanks for the info. Normaninvasion that is useful to know as I was considering using it on some items which have original paint and rust putting,I wonder now if I might end up with the white build up you mention?.

 

Matt.

 

If the item has a smooth surface there is no build up. Example: a 90% cork M1 lid will have a build up problem, a sand textured Brodie lid will have an issue. In this case, sometimes unit insignia is painted on a smooth surface on a textured lid, I apply the Ren wax only on the insignia and not the rest of the lid; in hopes of preserving the emblem. I have also used this product on Imperial Iron crosses, which can have rust build up on the cores, they come out looking great.

 

As stated, A LITTLE GOES ALONG WAY!

[Old Marine]

I don't know if this is an intended use but I have found that Ren Wax is very good at cleaning off verdigris. I had a US holster in good shape, but with bad verdigris on the rivets and the brass closure button. Using a Q-tip and a little amount of wax and some careful rubbing on the brass it just dissolved the verdigris and left the rivets and brass work looking great. Also it seems, so far, to have prevented the verdigris from coming back.

 

As Normaninvasion has stated a little does indeed go a long way.

[normaninvasion]

Should also mention that many people involved in antiques and collectables frown upon any form of cleaning or polishing of items, the rule of thumb being to leave items alone.

 

It is a personal choice I made, based on the fact that museums employ it for their collections. I live in the northeast, humid summers and cold dry winters, this can cause havoc on a collection, therefor Ifeel renwax has helped stabilize and preserve my items

[collector]

I don't know if this is an intended use but I have found that Ren Wax is very good at cleaning off verdigris. I had a US holster in good shape, but with bad verdigris on the rivets and the brass closure button. Using a Q-tip and a little amount of wax and some careful rubbing on the brass it just dissolved the verdigris and left the rivets and brass work looking great. Also it seems, so far, to have prevented the verdigris from coming back.

 

As Normaninvasion has stated a little does indeed go a long way.

 

 

That sounds like something I've been looking for. Also, someone else on the forum mentioned using dental floss to work the verdigris out from behind rivets and so on.

Seems like a great combination.

[hawkdriver]

When I took my WWI trench boots to the WWI Museum, the curator, Doran Cart, recommended Ren wax for leather. I have been using it for some time on all my leather products and it works like a champ. I know it smells like oil, but if the WWI museum uses it on their items, I feel very safe using it on my items. I have even used it on my rubber masks and have even used it on my assault gas mask bag to great effect. No hesitations here.

[Bluehawk]

When I took my WWI trench boots to the WWI Museum, the curator, Doran Cart, recommended Ren wax for leather. I have been using it for some time on all my leather products and it works like a champ. I know it smells like oil, but if the WWI museum uses it on their items, I feel very safe using it on my items. I have even used it on my rubber masks and have even used it on my assault gas mask bag to great effect. No hesitations here.

I concur with that opinion, actually.

 

While microcrystalline wax will practically always work to preserve metals, and is also good for nearly everything else except paper or textiles, the older (in centuries) a leather or wood artifact becomes then the greater caution ought to be used beforehand.

[AAF_Collection]

Since I posted the original question I have used Ren Wax on several items to good effect,though I haven't used it on leather or rubber I have used it on some insignia,a couple of shells as it prevents tarnish and finger marks and even some WWII vehicle parts!,oh and a unit history which had been damp in the past,after cleaning off the damp stains I applied Ren Wax to the cover and it was a big improvement.

 

The only down side I can see is the amount of shine it imparts,I would personally never use it on something with a dull finish.

 

Matt.

[skautdog]

I've used RENWAX for many years. I use it on bayonets, knives. field equipment other objects. I've used it for items on display and in storage and believe it is an excellent protection product. It is also good for removing verdigris. For example, I put a SMALL amount on the interior of a snap, close the snap, open the snap and use a plastic pick (sometimes covered with a soft cloth) and the verdigris will wipe off without spreading the mess all over the item.

[Larry D.]

Sorry to revive an old post, but I just found it.

Renwax is good stuff. I'm using it on my WWII vintage medals with good results.