Restoration of my 1942 Ford GPW Jeep

[zepher11]

Thanks Kat. Yes, it was a pleasure talking with these guys. I was in awe. Here's a link to a little story in a local paper about the event that led to our breakfast. Probably tells the story a lot better than I could:

 

http://www.redbluffdailynews.com/business/ci_25254412/men-connect-over-tale-b-17-joy-ride?IADID=Search-www.redbluffdailynews.com-www.redbluffdailynews.com

 

Zeph

 

[cjohns]

Zeph it's been 16 days!!!!! I need my fix!!!!!CJ.

[zepher11]

Zeph it's been 16 days!!!!! I need my fix!!!!!CJ.

Hey CJ, work has been sucking up a lot of my time. And spring is upon us, so a lot work gettng the mower, weed eater and weed sprayers functioning after a brief winter. Then the subseqent mowing and fixing sprinklers, etc... The property is getting overgrown fast! This weekend I hope to get a couple of hours of project time in if I can get my domestic chores completed. Update shortly!

 

Zeph

[cjohns]

That's cool it's spring here too!!!OH guess not it's 10 freekin degrees here in Minn!!!!!

[zepher11]

Been a bit since I have updated. Work has been sucking up my hours, but I have made progress and then had a minor, maybe it could be classified as a major setback. More on that later. I finished up the wiring and all the lights seem to work now. I installed the regulator after I painted it with that crinkle paint:

 

 

I then started on installing the canvas. I ordered my canvas from WEEBEE Webbing and it is very nice. I started with the crash pads. I used a piece of bailing wire to secure the canvas after I pushed down on the foam a bit and then installed:

 

 

One folds the canvas to the inside and when the screws are tightened it holds. The bailing wire is visible here before I cut it and removed:

 

 

Rear seat canvas installation:

 

 

 

 

Driver’s Seat:

 

 

Rear of the driver’s seat with the original brass screws for this location and tank protector:

 

 

 

Rear of the driver’s seat. I was told the little wood strip between the tank protector and floor board was not factory for a GPW. Oh well, it is now:

 

[zepher11]

Passenger seat. I screwed it down to the work bench so I could more easily work on it:

 

 

 

Ta da!! The seat canvas I ordered has zippers as the originals. There is about ½” of horse hair or something similar sewed in for a pad. The GI’s would use blankets or unused clothing to stuff in the zippered section. I am opting for high density foam. WWII GI = 130 lbs, 2014 me = 195lbs:

 

 

After goofing off with all that, I decided it was time to start the engine. I had nothing but problems from this point forward. First I couldn’t get any fuel to the carburetor. I used my vacuum pump, but just could get it to flow. I finally traced it to the new steel braided flex line that goes between the line the runs from the strainer and the metal line to the fuel pump. I was worried it was a bad fuel pump initially. Anyway, I pulled it and if I plugged one end it didn’t hold air. I bypassed it with a piece of fuel line and then it flowed no problem.

 

Next, I fired the engine up and it started immediately. However, I noticed that my water temp gauge was not registering. I panicked thinking that there was not water entering the cylinder head. I was really worried when the paint on the head started turning brown. I turned it off and pondered what to do. I tested the gauge and the brand new water temp gauge does not work. I had to buy another one. It was possible that some air was trapped in the cylinder head it became a little hot. Notice the browning of the ford grey paint on the head:

 

 

So far no blown head gasket, but I wouldn’t be surprised if that happens soon. Anyway, as I was sitting in neutral, I could hear an unsettling grinding sound coming from the transmission. Hmmm…I went for a spin and the trans had a terrible grinding noise when I let off the throttle. Not good. To make a long story short, some experts on the G503 help me diagnose the problem. Evidently, the cluster gear trust washers failed. This was due to me using a certain manual that neglected to indicate that one should check the free play of the cluster gear. All makes sense now, but I had now idea as this was the first transmission I have ever rebuilt. I was bummed as the tub was now installed and it really didn’t look too easy to get the transmission and transfer case out now.

 

I went ahead and proceeded. Out it came:

 

 

The cluster gear is below this mass of gears:

 

 

Let’s just say that I know my way around a WWII Jeep T84 transmission now! I then reinstalled the trans and transfer case yesterday, but couldn’t get the clutch linkage to adjust properly. I found the problem and the fun continued:

 

 

I made a test drive today and everything works great now. No grinding and the GPW drives and handles outstanding. I still need to replace the water temp gauge and figure out why my fuel gauge doesn’t work. I'm thinking the sending unit needs a ground.

 

This evening I shot some of the blue drab numbers:

 

 

 

[zepher11]

 

Next I need to work on the windshield frames and install my new windshield glass. Plus I have a lot of little items to correct.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Zeph

 

 

[Jeeper704]

That's some mighty good looking Jeep you have there!

I have been following the process closely and must say you guys sure have some patience working on these things.

 

Erwin

[Sjef]

Thanks for the update Zeph!

It looks beautiful already!!

 

It is always the same with restoration projects. Lots of hidden problems only come to the surface when the finish is in sight and although it is tempting to take short cuts when fixing them, you usually have to accept that there is no alternative other than to just swear for a minute or two and start undoing and redoing a few hours of work. Let's hope you will be spared from further setbacks!

 

Good luck!!

[Johan Willaert]

Great job! What blue drab paint did you use on the markings?

[zepher11]

That's some mighty good looking Jeep you have there!

I have been following the process closely and must say you guys sure have some patience working on these things.

 

Erwin

Thank you Erwin!

 

Thanks for the update Zeph!

It looks beautiful already!!

 

It is always the same with restoration projects. Lots of hidden problems only come to the surface when the finish is in sight and although it is tempting to take short cuts when fixing them, you usually have to accept that there is no alternative other than to just swear for a minute or two and start undoing and redoing a few hours of work. Let's hope you will be spared from further setbacks!

 

Good luck!!

I was a little bummed out, but then regrouped and tried to just use it as a learning experience and get it fixed. Now I'm moving forward and will be working on my original winshield frame today. First need to do a little sandblasting. Need to do this early as it will be rather warm today. Can't wait to get that completed and installed! Thanks!

 

Great job! What blue drab paint did you use on the markings?

Hi Johan, I used the TM9 Ordinance blue drab. When I test sprayed it, I was worried as it looked like battleship grey. It actually looked that way when I sprayed it on the stencil, but upon removal a nice subtle blue drab. I think it looks great.

 

I will let the blue drab dry for a few weeks and then overspray the white registration numbers over the blue drab on the hood and rear tail panel. Once I drive it around awhile and gets some use, it will slowly transform into a more realistic WWII BG Jeep. I see some have the bumperettes flipped upside down to make it easier for crew to stand on while transporting to the hardstands. At least that is what I've heard, but not positive. Do you know if this was a common practice?

 

Regards, Zeph

[Johan Willaert]

Hi Johan, I used the TM9 Ordinance blue drab. When I test sprayed it, I was worried as it looked like battleship grey. It actually looked that way when I sprayed it on the stencil, but upon removal a nice subtle blue drab. I think it looks great.

 

I will let the blue drab dry for a few weeks and then overspray the white registration numbers over the blue drab on the hood and rear tail panel. Once I drive it around awhile and gets some use, it will slowly transform into a more realistic WWII BG Jeep. I see some have the bumperettes flipped upside down to make it easier for crew to stand on while transporting to the hardstands. At least that is what I've heard, but not positive. Do you know if this was a common practice?

 

Regards, Zeph

 

Yes, blue drab is quite funny when not applied on OD... Looks completely different once sprayed on the OD...

If I were you I would only overspray the hood numbers in white, leave the rear one as is to fade...

 

Heard the same story on the upside down bumperettes... Seems a nice detail on a BG Jeep...

[svt40]

Did you not glue the hip pads to the base? IIRC they should be glued on with rubber cement.

 

Also where did you get the blue drab paint and does it come in spray cans or as a 2 part paint?

[cutiger83]

Zeph,

 

I LOVE the updates. I think you have learned your way around an entire jeep not just the transmission. It is amazing how great it looks!

 

Did you take the dogs on the test ride? You need to post a picture of them along for the ride.

 

...Kat

[RustyCanteen]

Zeph, lookin' good!

 

I noticed the exhaust manifold nuts are gold colored. Are you using grade 8 steel or brass? I know some of the old timers used to use brass to prevent the steel nuts from rusting and seizing. But you can't torque them to the same specs.

 

Good thing you found out about the clutch shaft before hitting the road! That would not be too fun had it let go.

 

Thanks for the update, we sure enjoy it!

 

RC

[zepher11]

 

Yes, blue drab is quite funny when not applied on OD... Looks completely different once sprayed on the OD...

If I were you I would only overspray the hood numbers in white, leave the rear one as is to fade...

 

Heard the same story on the upside down bumperettes... Seems a nice detail on a BG Jeep...

That's funny. I didn't realize the blue drab looked completely different when not on OD. I shot it on a few other colors to test and you are right.

 

Robert and I were chatting about the rear panel being oversprayed with white. He nor I could find any examples of the rear panel with the blue drab covered with the white registration numbers. i think you are right in that it should be left as is.

 

Here is an 8th USAAF Jeep with the upside down bumperettes. Alas, the rear panel is not visable! No BOD light either:

 

[American Graffiti]

Amazing, great job, it looks very handsome.

AG

[earlymb]

That's funny. I didn't realize the blue drab looked completely different when not on OD. I shot it on a few other colors to test and you are right.

 

Robert and I were chatting about the rear panel being oversprayed with white. He nor I could find any examples of the rear panel with the blue drab covered with the white registration numbers. i think you are right in that it should be left as is.

 

Here is an 8th USAAF Jeep with the upside down bumperettes. Alas, the rear panel is not visable! No BOD light either:

 

91st BG 01.jpg

 

This is a 'slat grille' Willys MB... Note the square fueltank sumb and the higher placement of the rear reflectors.

[zepher11]

Did you not glue the hip pads to the base? IIRC they should be glued on with rubber cement.

 

Also where did you get the blue drab paint and does it come in spray cans or as a 2 part paint?

The maker of my canvas recommended that one should just push the foam padding down about 25%., wrap it with a rubber band to hold it and then tighten the screws that hold the crash pad in order to hold the canvas down. Seemed to work great, he mentioned that glue was messy.

 

The blue drab paint is from TM9 Ordinance and comes in a rattle can.

 

Zeph,

 

I LOVE the updates. I think you have learned your way around an entire jeep not just the transmission. It is amazing how great it looks!

 

Did you take the dogs on the test ride? You need to post a picture of them along for the ride.

 

...Kat

Hi Kat, no they haven't caught a ride yet. I was tring to keep it nice for the first month or so for a couple of car shows. Then after that, they can scratch it up to their heart's content.

[RustyCanteen]

Zeph, what brand of paint did you use on the VR? It looks great!

 

RC

[zepher11]

Zeph, lookin' good!

 

I noticed the exhaust manifold nuts are gold colored. Are you using grade 8 steel or brass? I know some of the old timers used to use brass to prevent the steel nuts from rusting and seizing. But you can't torque them to the same specs.

 

Good thing you found out about the clutch shaft before hitting the road! That would not be too fun had it let go.

 

Thanks for the update, we sure enjoy it!

 

RC

Hi RC,

 

The nuts are grade eight. No brass.nuts. I guess it is good to find out all these little problems before expanding my area of oiperations. It was an easy fix.

 

Thanks!

 

Zeph

[cjohns]

Nice!!!Zeph do you need my address so you can ship it to me!!Clark.

[zepher11]

Zeph, what brand of paint did you use on the VR? It looks great!

 

RC

Hi RC, I used the VHT Wrinkle Plus from Summit Racing. Worked really well.

 

Nice!!!Zeph do you need my address so you can ship it to me!!Clark.

LOL I thnk I'll hold on to it for a little while....

[RustyCanteen]

Hi Zeph,

 

Thanks for the information. It came out looking great!

 

Keep us updated!

 

RC

[zepher11]

Getting very close to finishing, but continue to have little issues that slow me down and become somewhat frustrating. Only due to the fact that there is the Tower Park MV show in Lodi starting in two days. I am going as usual, but I was hoping to bring something with me. lol

 

Since I last posted I worked to finish the windshield and a bunch of little items. It started out well and they turned to a bit of a disaster, but I kept plugging along as work has sucked up a lot of hours. I only seem to have a few here and there. Here is the USA produced inner window frame that I picked up to replace the rotted out original above in the photo:

 

 

I checked it for fit and seem to fit very wellseemed:

 

 

I sandblasted everything including the outer and inner windshield frames. I also had a lot of little parts to finish up as well as my last combat wheel for my new reproduction Firestone spare tire:

 

 

Original brass windshield clasps:

 

 

The outer frame sheet metal potion was a bit rippled. I heat shrunk it with the torch, hamper and dolly and nice cold waterat least whats left of the water around heremajor drought:

 

 

Primed everything. Hoping this would be my last big batch paint job:

 

 

After all that the paint on the outer frame produced a nice wrinkle finish. Now if I wanted that I would have been very proud. HmmmI used the same primer and OD on all the parts, but this was the only item that had a problem. A bit perplexed. This was the first time I used this primer as the primer I was using is now outlawed in California, so the paint shop told me this would work the same. I tossed the whole gallon:

 

 

The inner came out okay, so I drilled to mount the wipers. I had forgot all about them, or I would have drilled the holes before the paint job:

 

 

Then I attempted to install the glass. First problem with the USA produced inner frame. As one can see, the rivets that were installed to hold the pivot bracket crushed in the channel when installed. This is fairly thick metal:

 

 

I had my glass cut from the originals a few weeks back. As I went to install I immediately noticed that the glass was almost too wide to fit in the channels. As I slid it down it was super tight and then finally got stuck and: