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GAR Sword Types


SARGE
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Gents,



I picked up an interesting Grand Army of the Republic (GAR) sword variation last week that I thought I would show. It is a standard GAR sword worn by Union Civil War Veterans except it is finished in nickel instead of having brass or gilt fittings.. I have seen nickeled examples of the GAR sword belt plates but this is the first nickeled GAR sword that I have seen.



The US M1860 S&F style sword has a brown leather grip instead of the usual black leather or sharkskin and all sword and scabbard fittings were nickel plated prior to assembly. The plain diamond shape blade has the pre-1883 Kirschbaum knights head logo in use prior to their merger with Weyersberg & cie.



An interesting early variation of the sword that I have not seen before.

GAR nick sword.jpg.JPG

GAR nick hilt front.jpg.JPG

GAR nick blade mark.jpg.JPG

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  • 1 year later...
post-13704-0-18165300-1454119598.jpgI recently purchased this "Sons of Veterans" sword. It's not in the greatest shape, but may have potential, The engravings on blade seem to be very faint and the blade is dark. Should I attempt to clean it? If so , how. The grip, which has lost most of the black covering has some sort of twine wrapped over the flat wood. The washer is not the correct type. The scabbard is metal, but seems to be brown or black (or perhaps this is fine rust
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attachicon.gifP9130169 (640x480).jpgI recently purchased this "Sons of Veterans" sword. It's not in the greatest shape, but may have potential, The engravings on blade seem to be very faint and the blade is dark. Should I attempt to clean it? If so , how. The grip, which has lost most of the black covering has some sort of twine wrapped over the flat wood. The washer is not the correct type. The scabbard is metal, but seems to be brown or black (or perhaps this is fine rust

 

Here is an internal link to some sword cleaning methods that may be helpful.

 

http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/44401-cleaning-or-restoration-of-a-sword/

 

I use the 51% rule of thumb on cleaning. If there is over 50% of the current finish left I will try to refrain from removing the rest. That is to say, if there is 75% of the original bright finish on the blade I would consider removing the 25% dark patina. On the other hand, if the dark patina was greater (and not unattractive) I would consider leaving it alone. This is a value judgement the collector must make that will please you.

 

The grip is made up of a wooden dowel that is then wrapped with thick twine to make the swells. The leather or sharkskin covering is then wet wrapped over the grip and when it dries shrinks to make outside grooves where the wire wrap can be placed. What you are seeing is the construction where the leather covering has worn away. The scabbard could be dark steel or the nickel plating may be worn away. If it looks OK being dark I would consider leaving it alone if over 50%.

 

I hope this is helpful.

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Hi George,

Thanks for replying to my post. Based on the photos that I sent, do you have any additional observations? I was thinking of giving the hilt a cleaning with ammonia. There seems to be a coating of black(I'm not sure what this is) on the hilt, pommel and guard especially on the inside of the guard. It almost looks like paint. Also, is there a way to restore the grip,by somehow recovering the missing leather? Or should I leave it alone. I have the proper twisted brass wire, but where would you find leather thin enough to achieve the desired affect. Given the condition of the grip, I had an idea of coating the grip with a product called "Plasti Grip" (black) to cover the exposed twine and level the coating on the grip. This is a product for putting a "rubberized" coating on the handles of pliers. The thickness can be varied by application. This would be rather unorthodox, but may actually work. Can one replace the washer with the proper thickness of leather without removing the hilt, buy simply slotting the leather and sliding it down the blade and tucking into the recess where the blade meets the guard.

 

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Regards,

Ken

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Hi,

 

Just a correction on the product name "Plasti Dip". What's nice is that if you are unhappy with the results, it can be pealed off without damaging the substrate.

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  • 7 years later...
1st Sgt CES
On 1/8/2007 at 10:04 AM, SARGE said:

Here is a closeup view of the clamshell guard showing the GAR logo.

 

GAR_OD_sword_guard.JPG

 

This is a closeup view of the blade showing the gilt etching. Of course, the gilt etch was also at extra cost.

 

GAR_OD_sword_blade.JPG

 

This is a closeup view of the blade ricasso showing the maker markings. This particular sword was manufactured by the Ames Sword Company.

 

GAR_OD_sword_Ames_mark.JPG

What a great sword ! I am still looking for a nice GAR Sword

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  • 5 months later...
Tennessee Doctor Ron

Hello! I am new to this site, but I have followed the extremely helpful threads from all you incredibly knowledgable collectors. I need some help with a GAR sword that I just acquired. The scabbard has considerable rust in the nickel finish, but the acid etching in the blade detail is beautiful.  I try to uncover stories about the owners connected with my artifacts. This makes them much more personal and meaningful. Allow me to reveal my ignorance about GAR sabers. Three questions for now: Is the star at the tip of the scabbard simply  ornamental, or a Corps badge? Also, the blade is custom etched at its base near the clamshell “Patch & Fellows Boston Mass.” Is this the owner’s name/nickname? I researched that, during the war, there were dozens of families in the Boston area with last name “Patch”, more than other areas of the north. Finally, can there be an hint anywhere as to the branch of the service of the owner? All three answers will narrow my research. Interesting. Any help is greatly appreciated.

IMG_8304.jpeg

IMG_8303.jpeg

IMG_8300.jpeg

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Hello Doctor Ron,

 

The star on the tip of the scabbard is called the drag and the star is ornamental.  

 

In my opinion you should clean the active red rust from the blade and the nickled scabbard.  This can be safely done with 0000 fine steel wool that should not harm the plating or the underlying steel.  You do not have to clean black rust as it has done its damage and is inactive.  A little gun oil (not WD40) will help after cleaning.  There is a tutorial for cleaning swords here that may be helpful.

 

The name on the ricasso of your blade is the maker / dealer information.  Your GAR owner bought this sword from Patch & Fellows.

 

The sword has insignia for Infantry, Artillery, and Navy so there is no way to know the branch of service of your original GAR member unless his name or unit is etched on the blade.

 

Nice complete rig.

 

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Tennessee Doctor Ron

Thank you so much. I will access the cleaning tutorial once forwarded. This was given to me by my brother to “cannot recall” where he got it from. Is there a general $ worth if sold? I see that some items without the belt go for $200-$300 in various condition. I desire to keep it as a relic of a proud veteran. Thanks for this final question.

 

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The belt is missing a couple of straps (one is present but unattached) but I would say $250. - $300. on average as a set.

 

 

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Tennessee Doctor Ron

I am very grateful to you for offering your expertise. I hope to do honor to the veteran who wore it by preserving and sharing. Thank you again. If I can be of service regarding medical items, please ask. 

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