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1st.marine.captain.17

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  1. Constant brushing and then wiping down with a damp cloth, then a bunch more of brushing then condition with Pecard. Rub it in hard. Then as it absorbed, buff with cloth, then brush vigorously. If you wish then wipe down with moist cloth and add a dab of Pecard or Neatsfoot oil monthly (or occasionally - depends on usage). But remember, for any kind of leather, horse hair shoe brushes are always best. I used Pecard without any problems at all. To avoid having spews on surfaces (the nasty white stuff that appears over time) all that one need is constant brushing. If it happens, just wipe it
  2. Wash the hell out of the boots, drench them good and wet, then wipe the water off of the surface, and then apply coats after coats after coats of oils. As the boot dries out, the oil should be absorbed. Make sure light coats of oil, so that they absorb well without residues on surface. If the boot is totally dried and are without oil residue, brush the whole boot before polish them. They can now take a polish. Oilling when dry won't allow a shine, so do it when it's wet. And it can only take a polish when no oil residue is left on the surface. Should there still be oil residue, wipe and bu
  3. I'm looking for the US Marine Corp combat leather boots, M-1951, in size in range from 10 to 11, in good, wearable conditions, all widths and lengths are OK. Please do help, anybody. I'm dying for one, and I just lost an auction of it so I'm pretty frustrated.

  4. I spoke to a few vets. Went with different answers. The WWII vet whom I spoke to first, told me that nothing was done to the boondockers, though few of his other buddies did this and that and he can't recall much. The Korean War era and late 50s vets told me that they were black "as issued" and wear washed with saddle soap as the only treatment permitted during boot, and one (1) of them told me he applied the 50s dated can of "preservative". Gosh. They're all too old now to really recall much. However, after speaking to them, I found this site which might prove useful for some of you folks
  5. Here's the problem with ATF boots. Excuse me that I'm not a professional shoe maker whatever so, but rather a humble amateur putting his words up. ATF boots were made overseas, whereabouts, I would suppose quality control isn't great. In addition, I recently got a chance to even touch the ATF boots from a friend. He told me how disappointed of him towards it, and all I told him was, "Bring it to my inspection". I examine the stitching and all that, and I was kinda surprise to see how the Goodyear welt construction that was top rated seems to be very poorly done. The stitches were bare
  6. Are there anybody, just anybody who knows where I can find one of these boots in size 10 - 11? I'm dying and are literally deteriorating to find one of these boots. I mean it. Please! Someone help me before I fall apart!
  7. For sole preservation, get Lexol's rubber and vinyl conditioner, apply, then let dry over days and wipe off excess. Any other car tire preservative works OK. Just remember to remove excess. As for the leather, strip it white. Then soap once, twice, detergent once, then let dry on a boot dryer (preferably Peet boot dryer). Once they are desert dry, stuff newspaper slowly and carefully inside. Then, get pure neat's foot oil, beef tallow, beeswax, olive oil and start the fun part. Heat the boot up with a hair dryer. Heat the neat's foot oil up. Once boots are hot, neat's foot oil are on
  8. It depends. I bought a pair of Corc directly from milsurp store and one from WWII Impression three years ago. Both are doing OK, so to speak. I have to strip both, grease them hard, heat them dry and then dye them again just to get the right russet finish. It took me a total of a whole month. Modern boots are often done sloppily whether if you believe it or not. And how long do they last depends. One small tip for these boots. Melt paste wax down to liquid state and "paint" over both sides of stitching should one enter the field, wherever that may be. That waterproof stitches and redu
  9. These would have cost somewhere around US$250 - US$500 for their condition. Stuff papers and fabric inside so that they look straight and healthy. Brush them often with shoe brush, but do not treat them with anything at all. A constant wipe down with a damp rag and occasional buffing would preserve them for ages to come.
  10. Love these pair of boots, but I happened to married a pair of 1964 Mac boots instead, which the former owner was a Marine who served two tours in 'Nam. A friend of mine had two pairs of these. One kept polish with Saphir shoe cream and shoe waxes and one preserved with Pecard and Fiebing's Neatsfoots. They would do an awesome job, according to his experience. I used to ask if he could sell me one of the two, but the guy just says sorry because he love them so much.
  11. Use oil to darken it. Don't use leather dye. Oil will do well. Clean the holster with saddle soap, rinse and totally dry the leather. Then when it has totally dried out, wipe it with wet, moist cloth. Then apply any kind of leather oil compound as in Obenauf's oil, Pecard's oil or Huberd's oil. No pure Neatsfoot, no Mink oil or Neatsfoot compound. If you can spend time, make your own oil. I used Neatsfoot oil, Linseed oil, Olive oil and Cedar wood oil and make a helluva leather oil out of them. Be aware that oils as well needed to be buff off of the leather surface. After oil treatment, a
  12. User BEWARE! To any kind of dressing or oils, ALWAYS clean the leather with water and saddle soap prior treatments and rub it well. The more you rub, the better! Then again, remove the excess! Buff it all up! Some elbow grease serve better than damaged leather. It happens with mink oil and other treatment as well that users tended to leave the treatment on the surface and let it sit. This is sick and wrong! Oily surface attracts dirts and grimes, not the dressing itself. For oils, let them dry. Use emulsification theory - that is, water to clean and semi-lubricate, then let it thorou
  13. It's an M-48 leather combat boots in Korean War.
  14. Once I went for camping trip outdoor with my friend in Virginia, and he got that jungle boot shinola and I got the black leather chevron Direct Molded Sole boots. We went uphill at around mid-day and it was quiet a trek for me already, but I held up well with my feet. However, when we walk through this bush, half way up the hill, my friend has had a bear trap bitten straight to his ankle. I can't help his wound due to the hollow, deep cuts left by the tooth. I had to carry him down hill and called for an ambulance. Though it never happen to me, I find it a terrible experience wearing jungle bo
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