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Milsurp Collector

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  1. Sadly, sporterizing collectable military rifles is not just a thing of the past http://www.discovery.com/tv-shows/american-guns/videos/sporterizing-a-krag-jorgensen-rifle/
  2. Got this M1917A1 helmet at a militaria show in Portland, OR two days ago. $50 I bought a British Pattern 1907 bayonet that came with this scabbard at a used goods store 3 days ago for $95. It turns the scabbard is a M1917 1st pattern.
  3. This carbine was made during the transition from the Type 2 to the Type 3 band. The Carbine Club had Inland Carbines of the Month with slightly lower (6.27 million) and slightly higher (6.37 million) that also have Type 2 bands. But the Type 3 bands were starting to be used around the same time. Here are more pictures of the magazine catch: As you can see, it isn't the M2 type catch Part No. 7161842 that has the additional tang to support the 30-round magazine, called Type IV by Riesch and Type D by Ruth. It is a Part No. 7160470 Riesch Type III/Ruth Type C introduced in mid-1944. It is slightly thinner than the previous types so it could float inward as the magazine was being inserted. They were marked with a M for Modified as this one is. The M2 type 7161842 was marked M.
  4. Bought this 6.3 million late war Inland yesterday from a local seller. All parts are Inland coded and it appears to be original. The interesting thing is that someone wrote the serial number with red grease pencil on the right side of the buttstock. It wasn't noticeable until I applied some raw linseed oil, then the numbering popped out. Auto manufacturers did (still do?) this type of marking at the factory during the assembly process. Perhaps this is something that Inland (a division of General Motors) did during manufacturing? It sure would be easier to see the big red grease pencil numbers for tracking purposes as the carbine went around the factory during assembly, sighting in, inspection, etc. rather than trying to read the small numbers on the receiver.
  5. According to Riesch's "U.S. M1 Carbines, Wartime Production", Saginaw S'G' receivers in the 3600000 range have been observed with the SG subcontract code on the left front side, and have the wide rear locking tang, indicating that they were made at the Saginaw plant instead of the Grand Rapids plant. Saginaw S'G' marked carbines are rarer than Saginaw SG and Rock-Ola marked carbines.
  6. I hope you were just kidding here. This Army is on a two front war, has a congress that has already cut your budget by almost a quarter, and so short manned that almost everyone has several additional duties and spending more time away from home than ever. Not only is the Army fighting a two-front war now, it was also fighting a two-front war in the 1940s when the carbine in question was made. The military had more important things to worry about back then than keeping centralized detailed records of where each of the millions of small arms they were using were issued and transfered, especially down to the level of the individual soldier. They were too busy trying to save the world from evil. Those were the days long before the existence of computerized databases. Bruce Canfield, author of several military arms books, has some relevant and amusing comments on this topic
  7. I use a scunci steamer It allows much more precise application of steam and for a much longer time than the iron and wet cloth method. It also works better on curved surfaces than an iron. Before During After
  8. It's a Saginaw S'G', made at the former Irwin-Pedersen plant in Grand Rapids, MI after Saginaw Steering Gear took over management of the plant.
  9. What to put on a stock is a frequently discussed and suprisingly controversial topic on the CMP forums. Everyone has their favorite and sometimes the debates seem more like people are discussing what is the best religion, make of pickup truck, or college football team. Here is one of the better threads on the subject http://www.odcmp.org/new_forum/topic.asp?A...;TOPIC_ID=63051 There are several products that will do the job, but the fact is that the manufacturers and the military originally used 100% pure tung oil (not "tung oil finish") and raw (not boiled) linseed oil. 100% pure tung oil was selected by Springfield Armory because of its superior water-resistance and lack of smoking when it got hot from rapid fire when compared to linseed oil (FYI, the Fairtrimmer's product mentioned earlier is also linseed oil based). However, tung oil is more expensive than linseed and a little harder to find. "Tung oil finish" commonly available in hardware stores is not the same as 100% pure tung oil, and in fact most tung oil finishes are varnishes, many of which have little tung oil in them. Raw (not boiled) linseed oil was used for maintenance because it was/is cheap, available, and easy to use. One nice characteristic of raw (not boiled) linseed oil is its tendency to become red-orange with age, which gives original walnut USGI stocks their typical "arsenal red" patina. "Boiled" linseed oil (BLO) is really linseed oil with metallic dryers added to make it dry faster. It does not tend to turn red-orange nearly as much as raw linseed oil. 100% pure tung oil is available at fine woodworking stores and online http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=65...lter=tung%20oil http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2000768/WO...e-Tung-Oil.aspx http://www.amazon.com/Behlen-H3987-Tung-Oi...4950&sr=8-2 Raw linseed oil is sold as "flax seed oil" dietary supplement in the health food sections of supermarkets, Walmart, Trader Joes, and online http://www.puritan.com/flaxseed-linseed-oi...06420?NewPage=1 http://www.vitadigest.com/flax-oil-barlean.html http://www.walgreens.com/store/product.jsp...p;id=prod393843 I use 100% pure tung oil as a primary finish and raw (not boiled) linseed oil for maintenance, which duplicates the procedure used by the US military. As mentioned earlier, your CMP stock is birch. Birch is an excellent wood for gunstocks, but some people prefer the traditional look of walnut, so they stain the birch stock to make it look more like walnut, with varying results. I like the natural look of both walnut and birch, so when like you I got a stained birch CMP stock I refinished it back to its natural blonde birch appearance There is a thread that details the refinishing process http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic...=53&t=78117
  10. Accurate serial number/date information is not available for most carbine manufacturers. However, Winchester kept a log of the last serial number stamped on each day of production. The table of serial numbers and dates was published in issue #337 of the Carbine Club newsletter. People interested in learning more about the M1 carbine should consider joining the Carbine Club. It was established in 1976 as a way for carbine collectors to share and report information they have gathered about the M1 carbine. It is analogous to the Garand Collectors Association. The Carbine Club has published a newsletter several times a year since 1976, and the newsletters contain information not published anywhere else. If you become a member of the Carbine Club you can purchase the 30+ years of newsletter back issues. In order to remain a member of the Carbine Club, you must contribute at least one piece of information, such as a carbine data sheet, an article, something carbine-related and interesting spotted at a gun show, etc. every year. If you are interested in the Carbine Club, contact Roger Fish PO Box 2335 Medway, MA 02053-0235 janrogerfish "at" comcast.net
  11. Serial number was stamped on Nov. 12, 1943. The carbine would have been finished some time later, probably late Nov. 1943.
  12. If you state the full serial number I can tell you what month, day, and year that number was stamped on the receiver. The carbine would have been assembled some time after that date. You can give me the number by private message if you prefer.
  13. The most detailed "parts book" for the M1 (Garand) Rifle just came out http://www.m1garandphotoessay.com/ Scott Duff's "red cover" book has much more information than the green cover "owners guide". Those are the two best books to have if you want to answer "what part is correct?" type questions. Agree with the Clawson book recommendation for the 1911 and 1911A1.
  14. See this thread http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/ind...showtopic=17968
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