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About DSchlagan

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    FAR West, of Nod

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  1. Well stated Wayne. A good way to handle it. [sorry, pun difficult to avoid.] Regards, Don.
  2. A-1, Good catch; I hadn't noticed the 'bottom' line of the "2". That over-struck index stamp appears to be the same character as the one above it, to left of the "8". Additionally, they appear to be done with the same stamp: meaning that it was an 'integral stamp', rather than done with a chisel. And then there is that short-"E" looking character. All definitely appear as index-struck, to me, besides. Very unusual set of stamps. Also note that a different set of stamps were used on the scabbard, as compared to those on the guard. The whole bayonet is quite puzzling... 1) Re-arsenalled? [Who knows where...] 2) Wire-wheeled condition of blade indicates grips may have replaced because they were 'rotted-off'. Shop done? But WHY drill an 'extra' hole in the center of the tang rather than re-use existing. [And even the 'less-hardened-than-blade' tang will ruin a HSS drill bit.] That [where normally would be a] 'washer' on grip where peened, appears more as a specialized splined nut. 501stGeronimo: Do both grip panels the look the same, as far as hardware? 3) I do not recall seeing a Krag bayonet with a S/N on the guard. I have at least one that is stamped with rack numbers on the grip panels, and have seen several with various arms-room stampings; however, only on the grips. Quite interesting. Regards, Don.
  3. Yes, that is something else! Those highly unusual index marks look like they may be Cyrillic. Also, most M1 bayonets that I have seen, that went to Greece on lend/lease, came back with serial numbers on the hilt; just as your Krag shows. It's Greek to me. Regards, Don.
  4. Or does it... Now puleeze don't be a-gettin all-kinda insulted JS, however, I know of a similar case. A guy I know, used to wear TWO PAIRS of Nitrile gloves, wherever he went, just in case the outside pair were defective. (We called him "Mr. Blue-Hands", for obvious reasons.) After much therapy, he went down to one pair, and FINALLY was able to 'go-bare-hand-naked'. Then he gets the 'hand-sanitizer-habit', REAL BAD. A pint in his pocket, and a gallon, for reserve, in his car. Wow. So then he goes and sits around in a circle and sings "Kumbi-Ya" with a bunch of other germaphobic OCDs. We kinda jokingly suggested that he just warm up some cosmolene, coat himself liberally with that, and guess what... couldn't get enough cosmo. So anyhow, we decided to have an "intervention". (Dr. Phil was booked-up, so you won't be seeing this on TV.) There was, however, a very professional Dr. Bambi Velvet, who was able to fit him in. He has been seeing her for 'intensive therapy' for months, now; and although he says he is "nearly cured" of his germaphobia, Dr. Velvet has advised him that their therapeutic sessions need to continue for quite some time.
  5. I was taught, when handling firearms and edged weapons, to grasp ONLY by their stocks or grips; carefully avoiding direct contact with the metal. Especially when they are collector pieces. Simply seems to me as a matter of RESPECT, no matter who owns it. I have noted that (maybe) about 1 in 100 people will follow this type handling procedure; yet alone KNOW how to PROPERLY present a weapon to another person. How many times has someone tried to hand you an edged weapon, 'pointy-end-first'; or worse yet, "Hey, wanna check out my new pistola?...", ....."Uhh, no, Really. As I'd rather NOT see the muzzle first." It really is rather a pet-peeve of mine. Illustration: one properly presents a rifle for inspection; then the ignorant slob will, nearly invariably, attempt to grab it, with his slimy paws, and proceed to smear-up as much metal as possible. I say "attempt to grab it", because I have learned over the years, to kindly request that the weapon should not be handled in such manner, and proceed to instruct them to "keep your hands off the metal". Kinda avoids the need to wear gloves in the first place. Yes, there are certainly reasonable exceptions to this 'handling-the-metal-thing': Such as a weapon, prior to fielding (it's gonna get field-stripped/detail-stripped, cleaned, and wiped-down, at earliest possible, anyhow.) Or, when SERIOUSLY considering purchasing such. Rant, Over.
  6. Hawk, Really appreciate the amount of time and effort that you spent on putting together this most interesting/informative thread! Also, the same, for the additional input from our other members. The history of NV equipment has always intrigued me. Regards, Don.
  7. While many of us have used 'whatever' degree of verbosity: Your response is: brief, to the point, and much appreciated/agreed. Thank You. Don.
  8. "skautdog", You are quite welcome. Here is a recent thread on "Knife Storage" that consolidates a great deal of relevant information. A very thorough discussion on "Preserving leather". You will note quite a 'variety' of advice. There is MUCH more information available that you will find, kindly shared, from MANY very knowledgeable collectors. I know that I have personally learned a great deal, from/through the combined expertise and experience of our Forum Membership... Regards, Don.
  9. You are correct, in EVERY regard: 1. DO NOT store ANY weapon in leather; whether in a sheath or holster. 2. Scabbards also present an additional problem: namely "Scabbard Wear", caused by their "retention springs". I have MANY bayonets, that are in 98%+ condition (instead of nearly 100%) simply because of such wear. 2A. Tag both bayonet and scabbard, (with those 'stringed-marking-tags', to keep them straight), and DO store separately. 3. And, YES; do a "Forum Search", both in the "Preservation" and "Edged Weapons", sub-Forums; you WILL FIND...MUCH Additional Information, is contained; to consider/reflect on. Don.
  10. DSchlagan

    V42 on Ebay

    Bill, I am CERTAIN that many members would appreciate purchasing a copy of your "V-42" book, when available. I would consider posting your book on, BOTH of, these USMF sub-Forums: MILITARIA BOOKSTORE AND ALSO FS Books, Photos, Ephemera, & Research Material While I would personally prefer to purchase directly from 'on' the Forum (FS Books...); the Amazon-linked (MILITARIA BOOKSTORE) may provide your book with a lot more potential exposure. Thank you, and the best in your endeavors! Regards, Don.
  11. Tom, As SKIP relates, "our good friend [and Forum MOD: "bayonetman"] Gary Cunningham", is THE MOST KNOWLEDGEABLE individual on bayonets, that I can possibly refer! We ALL owe him a HUGE DEBT of GRATITUDE, for his desire to share, his most remarkable WEALTH of EXPERTISE!! My sincere thanks, Gary; as without your astonishing amount of research (and your most considerate desire to assist others); I would still be in the "Stone Ages", towards any regard of information, on U.S. Bayonets. **** To answer your earlier question, Tom: I am quite reasonably certain that the information, on 'where' I learned of the reference of 'tab bent -- versus crimped' converted, M3 to M7 Scabbards; was from Gary's book, "American Military Bayonets of the 20th Century". Not able to provide "quick reference" as to 'exact page number', at present, as it is on loan. (One of my best friends has it, ...so will likely purchase another copy!) Regardless, in referencing simple metallurgical properties, it follows as quite evident, that the bending of mild steel 'back-and-forth' several times, WILL RESULT in "metal fatigue-failure". Regards, Don.
  12. knd643, Firstly, you are quite welcome. [However, don't let me spend your money for you!] Also, some collectors actually prefer the "saltier" (more battle-worn) condition items. There are literally tens of thousands of M1 bayonets available; so might I suggest making reasonably certain that "whatever" your choice may be, that YOU will be happy with it. CAUTION: Kinda like the potato chip advert goes; it is highly doubtful that you're gonna be able to stop at JUST ONE, ANYHOW!! Enjoy! **** While "O.L." M1905(E1)s are not necessarily all that extremely/comparatively rare*, you will find that the present condition (no matter whom the maker**), is what mainly determines the price, and/or value. Also note, that on many of Oneida's WWII production items, they use the mark "O.C.L.", for "Oneida Community Limited"; not "Cutlery" either, as I have made that presumptive error, myself. They were in fact a "Religious Community". *[Additionally, O.L. produced an extremely limited number of "actual" M1s, so you might keep that in mind.] **[The exception to this, is the much sought after "W.T." M1905(E1)s, (Wilde Drop Forge and Tool). They made a very small percentage of the total, thus they DO demand a premium. They Did Not manufacture an "actual" M1, either. Note that we, as collectors, make the observation of difference in 'separately referencing' the M1905E1 and the M1. ...After the 'go-ahead' was given, to cut-down to the 10" blade length, the Ordnance Department made NO such distinction; referring to both as the "Bayonet, M1".] Regards, Don.
  13. DSchlagan

    V42 on Ebay

    SKIP couldn't have said it better... My personal greetings, as well. Regards, Don.
  14. IMHO, you would have a much more desirable bayonet, in consideration of the O.L. (as listed in quoted/above eBay link). There are several things 'going for it': 1. Much better condition ...for starters. 2. This bayonet was initially made as a WWII M1905 (16") and then cut-down* to M1 (10"). Oneida Limited also produced a lot less bayonets than many others. (IIRC, they are the second or third, least, in number of production figures.) *[ANY production-year, from the very-beginning of the M1905 bayonet, when cut-down to the M1 length of 10", are most-generally referred to by collectors as "M1905E1s",] 3. It is 'blade-dated' "1942". The change-Order to 'straight' M1 production was actually implemented very early in 1943. Although M1905s were certainly still being produced fairly-well-into 1943, I cannot 'just-now' recall if any were actually/additionally blade-dated "1943". 4. Do Not be concerned, whatsoever, with the "UFH" marking on the right-side ricasso, either. Union Fork and Hoe, were simply the manufacturer that was responsible for the 'cut-down'. (You will find the maker responsible for the cut-down, sometimes either ricasso marked or grip-spine marked. [Even the same 're'-maker, was known to have, used either method of marking location (esp. UFH). 5. I own a very similar M1905E1, O.L. 1942 (grip-spine-marked A.F.H.), that I purposely bought because I wanted this combination for my M1 collection. The best, and never forget that we are ALL, still learning! Kind Regards, Don.
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