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Pudgy (V)

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Posts posted by Pudgy (V)

  1. That book is awesome. One of the best WWII books written. I liked it so much, I had to find a first edition myself. I actually found one that was signed personally by Eugene Sledge. I don't think there were that many books printed in the first edition, I think they are some what rare. Nobody ever thought that book would become part of a 10 part mini series.

  2. Thank-you so much for the information. I'm not 100% sure if it is a CCB or a CCR. Are painted armored helmets uncommon, I don't recall seeing too many of them. I did a little research and found a discussion on how the CCR was used in WWII, since I didn't know anything about it. I found it to be pretty interesting and thought I would attach it for others to read.

     

    https://forums.armchairgeneral.com/forum/historical-events-eras/world-war-ii/armor-in-world-war-ii/w-allied-armor/115406-us-armored-division-ccr-use

  3. If you took two unnamed USN helmets, both painted identical and no way of tracing either one of them. One has aged shellac, the other beautiful but not 100% sure it's original. I'm buying the one with shellac. Granted, it was altered, but I know it was preserved for a reason. I think this helmet is legit. With so many fakes out there, the ones with shellac might be the safer purchases. Just my two cents.

  4. Ok, maybe I'm missing something. If a helmet has shellac on it, wouldn't that help add to its authenticity? We know that was a common practice done by early collectors. You can tell it hadn't had shellac put on it recently. Personally, I think that makes it more legit.

  5. I love these things. They started as an A model and ended with an F model. I believe the F model was produced until sometime in late 1945 early 1946. From my experiences, there is an ink date stamped on the chassis somewhere. Since you have it out, it should be easy to find. Also, on the bottom of the chassis, where you insert the batteries, the plastic is marked BC 611- with a letter designation. In your instance it should be C. If it is, the chassis and shell might have been together for awhile anyway. The F models didn't always stamp an F on the chassis though.

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