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Durandal

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  • Location
    Canada
  • Interests
    US WWII Web Equipment<br />TL-122 Series Flashlights<br />Canadian and British Web Equipment
  1. Great advice from Johan! I detailed a complete cleaning technique for the TL-122 lights in this post: http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/ind...mp;#entry261959 Though this is specifically for 122As, I've used this same technique for Bs, Cs and Ds successfully. Make sure to use the multi-meter first. Try the continuity setting and place a contact below the switch and one above the switch in the "ON" position, If you get no current, then you know the problem exists in the switch. Not quite sure if it will apply to the light you're working on or not, so proceed at your own risk!! If you're really stuck i'd be happy to help out with some advice.
  2. A little late to the party but here are a pair of my batteries. I have a yellow pair as in the above post, but they are burred in a box somewhere. Surprisingly one of these actually still puts out enough current to be useful. If only the second one did as well they may well have been usable...
  3. Very interesting picture!!! Any idea of the date on it?
  4. Great looking light, rambob. A prime example! I notice that it even has the rubber washer around the base, which in my experience is often badly degraded or missing altogether. I've often wondered the same thing about the filters and the white spacers, unfortunately I haven't been able to find any official sources that answer the question.
  5. Also, as mentioned above, here is a picture of what I believe to be a complete set of US TL-122 series lights representing every model made by each manufacturer. Please let me know if you are aware of any lights that are missing!! Enjoy!
  6. Hi all, Here is the white bodied light I was mentioning. It is actually semi-transparent. It's made by GITS and is marked 122 on the side of the head. I believe it to be a civilian model. I've also included a picture of some July, 44 dated batteries. I was lucky enough to get these with one of the flashlights in my collection. They are in great condition, and one of them actually still has a charge, believe it or not!
  7. I have a "clear" model in my collection, which I guess could be considered white; It has a red lens ring. If you want to see some pics i can post them up. There's a thread about these lights on here somewhere that has lots of examples... I've been collecting these lights for a quite a while now and actually have examples all models (A,B,C and D. I'm missing a couple with the plastic switches) produced by all manufacturers that I'm aware of, if anyone is interested in pictures.
  8. Just thinking out loud here, but I wonder if there is some way to detect modern applied stampings? Certainly modern inks must differ from the inks used on original items. UV Light, perhaps, or something similar? I know that a similar technique is sometimes applied to German Iron Cross ribbons (new ones tend to glow brightly). Of course this wouldn't really help over ebay, but might provide a way to protect yourself at a show? Durandal
  9. [/quo #1 Looks like you can slide the light onto something? #2-5 Looks like you can take the light and press it onto something. I typed flashights in the SEARCH above. When I got the results some of the photos has the same cap indentations as mine. I think the indentations you're referring to might be where the metal lanyard ring is supposed to be? This was something that was added to post-WW2 flashlights, I believe, as I have never seen an original TL-122D with a lanyard ring, only the MX-991/U type models. Maybe the ring is missing from yours? It would be helpful if you could post a picture. As far as cleaning goes, you can try that David suggested. Also see my instructions in the following post; I've had a 100% success rate using this method, but use it at your own risk!!! Cleaning Instructions If the contact corrosion is in the switch on your light, you might be SOL as the 122D is a waterproof model, but it never hurts to try. Cheers, Fletcher
  10. To my knowledge the 122C was the third production model of the TL-122 series light, being replaced before the end of WWII by the TL-122-D. The D model was produced after the war, but was later replaced the the MX-991 and other models. As far as the crimp in the belt hook goes, all of my WWII TL-122s have this crimp. I would say it is standard feature, and would be very interested to see a light without this crimp. I would say you have a WWII era light body with an assortment of other parts added to it. But that's just my 2 cents Cheers, Fletcher
  11. Hi Andrew, Just wondering if you had any luck with the switch on your 122A. Fletcher
  12. I have restored a number of 122s that were non-functional. I'll outline the steps i normally take. AndrewA74, you've taken many of the same first steps that I do. First, I get 2 new D cell batteries that I know have a good charge. Then i also get a good PR9 (2.7V, .15A) bulb, and put the batteries and bulb in the light. If I don't get any results here, obviously there is a break in the circuit somewhere, so it's time to break out my multi-meter. With the switch in the "On" position, and the batteries still in (you'll have to remove the bulb assembly for this), check both terminals in the head for voltage (the 20V setting on most multi-meters is good for this). If you don't get anything here, the problem is most likely in the switch, but not necessarily. Many multi-meters have a continuity function which will sound a tone if electricity flows freely between the two probes. Turn to this setting, and you can isolate the problem. Remove the batteries from the light. On the 122A the entire body acts as the negative terminal, so simply place the black probe on the inside of body, and then the positive terminal in the head of the light, against the contact which protrudes on the right side (ensure the switch is still on). if you get no continuity, then you know the problem is in the switch. You can also check the continuity between the contact at the top of the battery compartment, and the bottom contact in the head. I have had several lights where the problem stemmed from a bad contact in the top of the battery compartment. Now to clean up that switch. To be honest, I've never tried this procedure on a 122A, but i've used it successfully on Bs, Cs and Ds. I see no reason why it shouldn't work on an A as well, but please proceed at your own risk. Get some ammonia, and cut it 50/50 with some water. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area as ammonia is pretty nasty stuff. If the problem is the switch, then most likely tarnish has built up on contacts within the switch. The ammonia solution will remove this tarnish. Submerge the switch in the mixture for a minute, and then pull it out, and work the switch vigorously. Repeat this a couple times. Then run it under cold water for a couple minutes while working the switch. To ensure that all residue has been rinsed from the switch, I also fill a bowl with boiling water, and then dip the switch in the water. This part is actually pretty neat; if the bowl is transparent, you can see the residue falling out of the switch. Once you're done rinsing the switch, get a hair dryer, and use it to dry the switch very thoroughly. Work the switch while you dry it. You really want to make sure you get all the moisture out of the switch, and the rest of the light, as moisture will undo any good that you've just done. In the summer time, leaving the light out to bake in the sun for a while might be good idea, and I've even heard of people putting their lights in an oven set on low heat (though I would not personally recommend this). Now, once that is all done, try it again. In my experience, if I have isolated the problem to the switch, this will restore functionality to the light. I have yet to come across a light I have not been able to repair in this fashion. I should emphasize that this will only fix your problem if you're sure that the problem is the switch. Make sure to check all the contacts with your multi-meter. Hope this helps you, and please feel free to PM me with any questions you might have. Cheers, Fletcher
  13. Hi, Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I've consulted my collection. None of my 122As have gaskets, and though some of the Bs do, I suspect they were added by the original owners as I understand the difference between the B and C models was that the C was waterproof, while the B was not. My C and D models have 3 gaskets, as you describe: 2 on the lens, and one on the base compartment. The lens gaskets appear variably on both sides of the lens, or on either side of the metal reflector. Cheers, Durandal
  14. I've got a pretty extensive collection of TL-122s. I'm visiting my family for the holidays, but when i get home, i'll check for you. -Durandal
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