Jump to content
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hill Country, Texas
  • Interests
    US Cavalry edged weapons.

Recent Profile Visitors

978 profile views
  1. Beautiful, well-made holster, but...you have to put your finger inside the trigger guard to draw?
  2. Butt-forward was all there was for revolvers until the new holsters were made in 1942. He was probably wearing a M1909 or M1917.
  3. Holsters were worn on the right side, saber/sword on the left, and revolver holsters were butt-forward. The US Army didn't issue a butt-rear revolver holster until 1942.
  4. None of them were left-hand draw. Some were right-hand butt forward "Cavalry draw", and some were right-hand butt rearward.
  5. Looks like the Brit lanyard I got with a Webley.
  6. It's hard to visualize your predicament, but... There's a screw on the back of the pommel. It holds the entire saber together, minus the grip panels which have their own screws. Unscrew the two grip panel screws, remove the grip panels. Remove the screw at the end of the pommel, remove the end of the guard from its socket at the back of the pommel, and everything should slide out to the rear. You may need to encourage it a little with a wood or rubber mallet.
  7. I can't remember ever seeing one marked, other than those with Boyle, Gamble, & McFee cast in the guard. This guy might offer some insight:
  8. I stand corrected...the earliest is 1935, on a L-A marked as "Sportsman/US Army/American Made". I couldn't make out the last number of the year in the inscription, so I'd filed it as 193X, but looking at the officer's record it was a gift from his NCOs on his last day as a first sergeant before being commissioned, 7 Feb 1935. Given the early date in 1935, they were likely sold at least as early as 1934.
  9. If you buy a letter for that M1917, it will tell you which depot it was shipped to and when.
  10. The Springfield saber blades were actually rather light compared to some of the commercial offerings. The distal taper begins earlier, coming to a not-so-false edge on the last quarter or so of the blade. I just pulled out a 32" Springfield and a 32" Ames; the pob on the Springfield was 4-5/8", the Ames was 5-5/8". Some of that might be a difference in furniture weight, but not all of it. The most substantial M1902 I can remember handling was a Ridabock made in France. Very stout example.
  11. "Made in US", "Made in USA" or "American Made" I agree can be pre-1939, though the earliest dated example I've seen has been 1938. These sabers are "normal" quality. For the "MADE U.S.A" sabers (no dot after the A, which speaks volumes on quality control), the pictures below of one dated 1942 help illustrate what I mean when I say "crude". The plastic handle is light and cheap. The scabbard furniture is not cleanly finished. The etching is uneven, with light and heavy areas in the same letter and lines that wander. The earliest dated saber with that marking I've seen is from 1
  12. Albaugh's books are still pretty cheap, or were last I looked.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.