Cleaners, Lubes, Protectants
Posted 06 September 2009 - 05:52 AM
I used to use Hoppe's, Gun Lube, or other teflon spray to clean, lube, and protect my firearms (and in some instances, knives). Now there seem to be a boatload (using this term because of the family nature of the site) of CLPs, with "BreakFree" seeming to be the most popular.
Did some "research" on the 'Net and came across a comparison of various brands of CLPs as well as other things (motor oil, for example) used to protect metal. Purchased two to try out, with nothing of significance to report at this point. However, I did want to know if anyone has used these products extensively and whether the results were satisfactory. This type of info might of interest and help to collectors and users of firearms, knives, etc. that need to be protected from rust while maintaining reasonable (and non-sticky) lubrication.
The two products I tried were (can't remember the brand) molydebnum disulfie powder in a spray can and a product called EEZOX.
The moly disulfide is really slippery, but it comes out like an elephant stomped on a tube of powdered graphite! I used this in my little den and still have a dirty mess. Also used it on a squeeking car door hinge and the track and worm drive of an electric garage door. Worked very well on both. Used it on one firearm (a Mauser HSc) and it went everywhere! Blacked out the red dot on the safety.
The EEZOX comes out as a liquid spray. It is a Cleaner, Lube, Protectant. Supposed to leave a very thin film on the metal after cleaning. It will dry and supposedly lubricate as well as protect. It will allegedly make the metal impervious to fingerprints or finger oil that may cause some corrosion. If one uses this product, make sure that it is used outdoors or in a VERY well vented area. I used it in my "den" and had a cheap high for a day and a half.
Anyway, the issue is: what are the products being used to protect your collectibles as well as your "useables" and how effective are they? I'll report back after I've fired some of these treated firearms.
Posted 08 September 2009 - 05:08 AM
C.L.P. : Do not walk away, run..... If using as a cleaner fine, just is an almost anti- preservative. Leave a film that when drys attracts a lot of dust and crud... Bad, possibly fatal in a desert climate.
L.S.A. and bore cleaner: Not bad, used it for years. Just make sure you get the bore cleaner (used as one hell of a cleaner) off before treatment with clp. The clp dries and leaves a almost grease like residue. Good inside a fire arm. Not so good outside, but dose not attract a lot of crud. Word of warning. The clp is effected by the cold weather and will effect the functionality of the weapon. Found this out the hard way..........
Graphite: As you found out, messy and seems to attract powder fouling.....
Parts washer: If you have access to one of these, these are a god sent! Use the non solvent ones if you can. These are less rough to the sometimes fragile finish. Word of warning: these will strip the cleaned item of any preservative what so ever. And you must treat with oil shortly after it dries.
Hoppies: Good, but not the best.
Gunzilla: Odd name, but was turned on to this in gods catbox. It is a CLP that actually works. No residue that attracts crud. Has a cleansing power that penetrates rust and will clean it off. It works a a bore cleaner also. Than you can coat the bore as a protective after cleaning. Little hard to find, but is wort giving a try. I use it by the quart in the shop....
Posted 08 September 2009 - 05:24 AM
I posted a link to the thread in our Preservation supplies forum.
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