Sherman M4A3E8 with cast hull

[Proud Kraut]

3 weeks ago I saw some Sherman tanks M4A3, HVSS, with welded hull and wide tracks. I liked that design much but I learned from fellow members here, that this kit does not exist in 1/35. So I decided to build my first Sherman conversion this week.

These were the 3 beauties I found recently:

[Proud Kraut]

I got me a Dragon M4A3E8 Sherman and an old M4A1 Italeri kit. To put it in a nutshell, I liked the Italeri kit much more, although the Dragon kit was twice as much expensive.

[Proud Kraut]

The Dragon kit consists of nearly 500 parts for tracks and chassis, but they weren't able to build a correct mantlet (eyes and holes have to be on upper half of the mantlet).

[Proud Kraut]

Not to mention the mantlet cover that lacked completely. I have had to correct the mantlet and decided to build an mantlet cover myself. It turned out a bit crude, but if you don't look too closely....

[Proud Kraut]

So here is the result: My welded hull “Easy Eight”.

[Proud Kraut]

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[Proud Kraut]

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[Proud Kraut]

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[Proud Kraut]

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[Proud Kraut]

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[Proud Kraut]

The M4A1 hull fitted perfectly. I just had to exchange them. I think that's a conversion a beginner like me can do easily. Thanks for looking.

 

Lars

[Old Marine]

To put it in a nutshell, I liked the Italeri kit much more, although the Dragon kit was twice as much expensive.

 

I agree with you Lars, just because it costs more doesn't always mean it's better. I like a those old Italeri kits, although DML has better box art.

 

I look forward to seeing the finished kit. Where did you come across those 3 Shermans? That's a good photo.

 

Dennis

[Old Marine]

I am sorry Lars, I didn't see any of the post after #3. For some reason my computer didn't load it all. I see it now that's a nice looking model.

[The Meatcan]

Looking good Lars! :thumbsup: I like your weathering too; it's not real heavy but enough to make it look neat. Did you use lead foil for the mantlet cover? It came out looking great. The only thing you might want to watch out for on your next build is your "silvered" decals. Overall great job!

 

I have the same question as Dennis; where did you get that cool photo of the three Shermans?

Terry

[Linedoggie]

It's beautiful but it's NOT a welded hull, it's a CAST hull M4A1E8,76mm(W). And Cast Hull M4A1 76mm HVSS were not used by US forces in the Korean War. Most were fobbed off on the French & Belgian Army postwar.

[Proud Kraut]

Thanks guys!

 

Yes, Linedoggie is right OF COURSE, cast hull, my mistake. (Could somebody from the staff change that in the headline!?)

 

I think the word for what I used is "aluminium foil".

 

"Silvered decals"? Do you mean the edge of the decals? How do you avoid that; cutting out the letters etc.?

[mpguy80/08]

Thanks guys!

 

Yes, Linedoggie is right OF COURSE, cast hull, my mistake. (Could somebody from the staff change that in the headline!?)

 

I think the word for what I used is "aluminium foil".

 

"Silvered decals"? Do you mean the edge of the decals? How do you avoid that; cutting out the letters etc.?

 

Firstly, Great job! The silvering of the decals is a result of decals being applied over flat paint. There are a few ways this can be avoided... First is to apply a gloss coat over the vehicle, wait till it dries, then apply the decals, then after the decals are dry, apply a flat coat. The other way is to ensure that you trip the decal as close to the edge as you can. If you can find it, obtain the Microscale system of decal solutions; Micro Set and Micro Sol. These solutions help the decal snug down to the surface and to conform to the surface. First dip the decal in warm water for about 10 to 15 seconds and set aside on a paper towel while you brush Micro Set onto the surface where you want to apply the decal. When the decal slides easily on the backing sheet, slide the decal onto the model where you applied the Micro Set and adjust it to where you want it. Then, take a paint brush and gently brush Micro SOL onto the decal. DO NOT touch the decal. Let the decal dry. During the process the decal will look wrinkly. This is a part of the system and is not anything to worry about. Once the decal is dry, if there are any bubbles under the decal, or it did not snug down completely, you can puncture the bubble or slice the decal with a sharp #11 blade, and apply more Micro SOL to the decal to get it to snug down. Sounds harder than it is and the decals will not silver. Check out my other models here in this forum. All the decals were applied this way.

 

If you are going to get into modeling the sherman, I would suggest obtaining some reverence materials. I have the Squadron Sherman in Action and Sherman Walk around which have really good up close detail pictures. This might have helped you a bit with the attachment of the Mantlet cover. Osprey also has numerous Sherman reference books, as well as Concord publications.

 

Again, great job!

 

Wayne

[mpguy80/08]

The Dragon kit consists of nearly 500 parts for tracks and chassis, but they weren't able to build a correct mantlet (eyes and holes have to be on upper half of the mantlet).

 

The easy fix on this one is to flip the mantlet around to the right direction (eyes up) then fill and re-drill the sight and machine gun ports. I use Squadron green or white putty for this, but you can also use the Testors putty as well.

 

Wayne

[Proud Kraut]

The easy fix on this one is to flip the mantlet around to the right direction (eyes up) then fill and re-drill the sight and machine gun ports. I use Squadron green or white putty for this, but you can also use the Testors putty as well.

 

Wayne

 

That's exact the way I did it with the mantlet!

 

Wayne, thank you very much for this comprehensive information. I have learned so much from your and other forum member's advices! Will test out this decal system as soon as I get Micro Set/Sol. And yes, I really have to extend my library on some Sherman books...

 

Thanks again

 

Lars

[mpguy80/08]

That's exact the way I did it with the mantlet!

 

Wayne, thank you very much for this comprehensive information. I have learned so much from your and other forum member's advices! Will test out this decal system as soon as I get Micro Set/Sol. And yes, I really have to extend my library on some Sherman books...

 

Thanks again

 

Lars

 

I'm looking at a 76mm turret from an Italeri M4A1 76mm that I'm using on a Tamiya A3 hull... its odd, because the MG and sight ports are correct... I'm thinking you might have gotten an earlier version before a fix maybe?

 

Wayne

[Proud Kraut]

I'm looking at a 76mm turret from an Italeri M4A1 76mm that I'm using on a Tamiya A3 hull... its odd, because the MG and sight ports are correct... I'm thinking you might have gotten an earlier version before a fix maybe?

 

Wayne

 

Don't know, if I understood you right, Wayne? Are you talking about the wrong turret? It was the Dragon kit one!

 

Lars

[mpguy80/08]

Don't know, if I understood you right, Wayne? Are you talking about the wrong turret? It was the Dragon kit one!

 

Lars

 

Aww heck.... *goes and drags out his Dragon Easy eights...* I have the following kits:

 

Kit # 9010 M4A3E8 HVSS WWII

 

Kit # 6813 M4A3E8 HVSS Thunderbolt VII

 

Kit # 6083 M4A1 76mm W Operation Cobra

 

Kit # 6811 M4A3E8 Korean War

 

All of my kits have the Mantlet openings in the correct places.

 

If you can, I would suggest obtaining the M4A1 and Thunderbolt VII kits... both have photoetched parts, and numerous extra detail parts such as two complete sets of tracks in the M4A1, and two turret choices on the Thunderbolt VII. Good kits, and well worth the money for the sheer number of parts in the kits.

 

Wayne

[Proud Kraut]

Mine is DRAGON # 9009, seems to be an older kit, it has some 1994 copyright drawings included.

 

Another question: has anybody built one of these Sherman Mine Roller monsters? I found some impressive pictures online and thought about starting to build one.

[mpguy80/08]

Mine is DRAGON # 9009, seems to be an older kit, it has some 1994 copyright drawings included.

 

Another question: has anybody built one of these Sherman Mine Roller monsters? I found some impressive pictures online and thought about starting to build one.

 

This is the same kit I have which is probably a re-release under the Kit # 6811. At least the box art is the same.

 

Verlinden (Legend Productions?) I believe puts out a T1E1 (three sets of small rollers) or T1E3 (two sets of large rollers) Mine roller conversion kit for the "Aunt Jemima" Mine roller. The 738th and 739th Tank Battalions were both converted to specialized mine clearing tank battalions and were equipped with these mine rollers and dozer tanks. I have seen pictures of using these roller attachments on early M4 and M4A1 types. M4A3, and M32B1s. The rollers were very heavy, and would bog down in soft soil so a push bar was attached to the back of the tank in case it needed a push.

 

Wayne

[Sgt_Rock_EasyCo]

Nice tank!

 

I love hearing how to fix issues that I had as a kid.

 

I am loving these modeling threads even though I don't model anymore.

 

Rock