AndrewA74 Posted April 29, 2007 Share #1 Posted April 29, 2007 Hello, You'll may have already talked about this; If a knife/bayonet is sharpened does it's value decrease? Sincerely, AndrewA74 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SARGE Posted April 29, 2007 Share #2 Posted April 29, 2007 Andrew, Yes, the value is decreased if a knife or bayonet is sharpened. Some came sharp from the factory but if it has been sharpened by the user, or anyone else, the value is decreased considerably. Most folks collect the best condition they can and that means unsharpened, original scabbard, and no damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewA74 Posted April 29, 2007 Author Share #3 Posted April 29, 2007 Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunbarrel Posted April 30, 2007 Share #4 Posted April 30, 2007 Most folks collect the best condition they can and that means unsharpened, original scabbard, and no damage. With all due respect, Sarge, sometimes the best condition a collector can (afford) is a sharpened specimen with some use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SARGE Posted April 30, 2007 Share #5 Posted April 30, 2007 Gunbarrel, You are quite right that sharpened or damaged edged weapons are more affordable. They are more affordable because they have less monetary value. Some folks collect relics or ground dug artifacts that by their very nature are in poor condition. I am not saying there is not a legitimate reason to collect these things or that dug battlefield relics are second class collectables. In answer to Andrew's question though, condition does affect price. If you have two identical edged weapons, with one being sharpened, the sharpened one will have less monetary value. So, I think we are on the same page here and Andrew is a relatively young and new collector who is asking a good question. Most antique dealers will tell you that the three most important things affecting price are: condition, condition, condition. I don't fully agree with that statement but I think it is a good rule of thumb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunbarrel Posted April 30, 2007 Share #6 Posted April 30, 2007 Agreed! Thanks, Sarge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Robinson Posted April 30, 2007 Share #7 Posted April 30, 2007 The way it was put to me when I started collecting was you should always buy the best condition you can afford at the time even if it means being patient and waiting for a better example to come along. Did I always follow that advice? Unfortunately....no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbuehler Posted April 30, 2007 Share #8 Posted April 30, 2007 Please remember that there are two different schools of collecting here. Some of us like historical items that were actually used and have a history with them. Most of these knives are going to be well used indeed! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hudson Posted April 30, 2007 Share #9 Posted April 30, 2007 Please remember that there are two different schools of collecting here. CB So true: like stuff that has been there instead of having spent the last 65 years in a box. I rcently picked up a ROBESON SHUREDGE with a BOYT 42 sheath on which the GI had scratched his name and his girlfriend or wife's. Something like that is an historical artifact while something pristine is just a cool knife, but I will concede that the cool unused knife will sell for more money than one which actually went to war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Robinson Posted April 30, 2007 Share #10 Posted April 30, 2007 So true: like stuff that has been there instead of having spent the last 65 years in a box. I rcently picked up a ROBESON SHUREDGE with a BOYT 42 sheath on which the GI had scratched his name and his girlfriend or wife's. Something like that is an historical artifact while something pristine is just a cool knife, but I will concede that the cool unused knife will sell for more money than one which actually went to war. The other side to that story is the fact that in most cases you can't tell the difference between a vet used "been there" piece and one that was abused by some kid who found it in the vet's basement or in an army store. As a kid growing up in the 1950's and early '60's I can tell you that WW2 surplus was all over the place and lots of fun to play with and often ruin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewA74 Posted April 30, 2007 Author Share #11 Posted April 30, 2007 Gunbarrel, So, I think we are on the same page here and Andrew is a relatively young and new collector who is asking a good question. Most antique dealers will tell you that the three most important things affecting price are: condition, condition, condition. I don't fully agree with that statement but I think it is a good rule of thumb. To be exact, I have collected for 4 years. For me though, I think I would rather have something that has been in the field. But, if I can afford it plus it's in good condition, I will buy it. An example: I was at a flea market and saw a German WWII helmet that had 5 bullet holes in it for $35. At fist, I thought maybe someone had shot it to make it worth more (I hate to say it but some idiots think like that). But, I looked inside and there was some blond hair stuck to a brown spot inside the helmet. I wasted 20 minutes deciding whether to buy it but, when I went back to buy it, someone had bought it 5 minutes ago. I think some people collect just battlefield stuff, but I will opt for the better condition if cheap. In case you're wondering why I asked this question, I have several dealers tell me different things. Sincerely, AndrewA74 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY Militaria Posted April 30, 2007 Share #12 Posted April 30, 2007 But, I looked inside and there was some blond hair stuck to a brown spot inside the helmet. I wasted 20 minutes deciding whether to buy it but, when I went back to buy it, someone had bought it 5 minutes ago. Sincerely, AndrewA74 I would have passed it too in that condition. Thats just wierd IMO to have something like that still in the helmet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewA74 Posted April 30, 2007 Author Share #13 Posted April 30, 2007 I would have passed it too in that condition. Thats just wierd IMO to have something like that still in the helmet. Well, that's why I wasted 20 minutes thinking about it. By the way, what does IMO mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY Militaria Posted April 30, 2007 Share #14 Posted April 30, 2007 IMO=In My Opinion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewA74 Posted April 30, 2007 Author Share #15 Posted April 30, 2007 Ok. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAS36 Posted May 1, 2007 Share #16 Posted May 1, 2007 bayonets & knives are tools, I consider a little sharpening as part of the normal wear, as long as the piece has not been over sharpened, I would buy it before buying a mint un-issued over priced bayonet / knife. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SARGE Posted May 1, 2007 Share #17 Posted May 1, 2007 bayonets & knives are tools, I consider a little sharpening as part of the normal wear, as long as the piece has not been over sharpened, I would buy it before buying a mint un-issued over priced bayonet / knife. You know, this is really a good discussion about collecting. We all come to collecting militaria from different experiences and from different points of view. Some of us collect for investment. Some of us collect just one thing, i.e. swords or patches or helmets. Some of us collect minty items and some collect dug relics. No one is right or wrong in their approach if it makes them happy. Even overpaying for something is not a fatal flaw because the market will catch up to you over time. I have been collecting militaria for 50 years and I can tell you that the market has always caught up to stuff I overpaid for years ago. The trick is to avoid fakes. If you buy an original item in either well used or unissued condition you will be satisfied and you will generally get your money back at some point in time. Or, at least your heirs will get some money back. I actually prefer items that show use. Minty stuff does not grab me in any particular way. I don't collect dug stuff either for the same reason, but I do have a few dug items that certainly have cachet and value. Just not the same value as the identical minty item. I accept that and I don't really care because the rusty dug up item speaks to me in a way that the unissued item that stayed in a warehouse does not. That does not make either approach the "right" or "wrong" way to go about putting together a collection. Anyway, Andrew thank you for asking the question. You are a young guy who is just starting out in this hobby. Even after four years of collecting. I am an old guy who started about the same age you did. Keep it up and you can have a hobby that outlives most others. Ask for, and take into account, advice but decide for yourself what you focus should be. This may take awhile... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewA74 Posted May 1, 2007 Author Share #18 Posted May 1, 2007 I would like to have some dug itmes, but how do I get my hands on them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SARGE Posted May 1, 2007 Share #19 Posted May 1, 2007 I would like to have some dug itmes, but how do I get my hands on them? Depending upon where you live, you could contact metal detector shops or most militaria dealers have dug items. If you live near a battlefield (not one on public land) you could dig them yourself. Look at the things dug out of European battlefields on the helmet forum. Militaria is where you find it. Here is a ground dug WWI knuckle knife that was recently given to me. Not the prettiest thing in the world but one can almost be guaranteed that it saw combat and is 100% original. It is one of those things that speak to me but would certainly not bring top dollar on a militaria show table. Heck, it is not even the pick of the litter in a display. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewA74 Posted May 1, 2007 Author Share #20 Posted May 1, 2007 Nice knife. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hudson Posted May 2, 2007 Share #21 Posted May 2, 2007 Hello,You'll may have already talked about this; If a knife/bayonet is sharpened does it's value decrease? Sincerely, AndrewA74 Ask a simple question and we write book Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SARGE Posted May 2, 2007 Share #22 Posted May 2, 2007 Ask a simple question and we write book Yeah, but are there really any simple questions? Maybe it is just that there are no simple answers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hudson Posted May 2, 2007 Share #23 Posted May 2, 2007 Yeah, but are there really any simple questions? Maybe it is just that there are no simple answers... So often true in collecting. Like I still have not figured out why I keep seeing so many requests for NOS trousers, shirts, jackets for every war from WWII to Vietnam (and we've had a lot of those in our WANTED section)? Is this for folks who are reenacting the first day of boot camp when everything was new and stiff? Oh well, the answer(s) to that are probably best left to another thread.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Posted May 7, 2007 Share #24 Posted May 7, 2007 Here are a couple of bayonets that have been sharpened and seen better days. The M4 is an Imperial example, and shows heavy wear. The M1 Garand bayonet is a UFH example, and does appear to be in better shape than the M4, though the paint on the scabbard has almost worn completely off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UPNATM Posted May 7, 2007 Share #25 Posted May 7, 2007 So, what do you think an m4 in that condition is worth? I know where there is one just like it for 60 bucks. Is that a decent price? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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