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Info. Req: AEF Service Coats


TrenchRaider1918
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TrenchRaider1918

Got two tunics here from the Great War era, can anyone tell me about when and how they mere made?

 

One has brass buttons and the other bakelite.

post-879-1177391567.jpg post-879-1177391692.jpg

 

The Brass button one has scratchier wool and the bakelite one has a smoother twill texture.

post-879-1177391618.jpg

 

post-879-1177391666.jpg

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The first one appears to be pretty standard. The second coat is most likely an enlisted private purchase uniform. The buttons are vegetable ivory (seen on issue and private purchase uniforms alike.) Vegetable ivory is a substance derived from several tropical palms, but the one credited for most WWI production is the Tagua nut. This was an attempt to save unnecessary use of bronze.

 

I believe the scraps were then used to produce charcoal for gas masks.

 

You can still buy these nuts at fine woodworking supply stores (like Woodcraft). They are great for carving!

 

JS

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New Romantic

Service coats are another AEF item with numerous variations -from the depot issue coats to private purchase. On the depot coats the contract tag with date would be located at the hem of the coat lining. Of course the majority of coats you will find will be manufactured in either 1917 or 1918.

 

Earlier coats are harder to find and sometimes these will have rimless eagle buttons. Several months ago I bought a circa 1910-1912 service coat from Jeff which has rimless eagle buttons and the cuffs have pointed stitching. The contract tag was a pain to look at b/c it was located under the lining, I think near a pocket.

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Service coats are another AEF item with numerous variations -from the depot issue coats to private purchase. On the depot coats the contract tag with date would be located at the hem of the coat lining. Of course the majority of coats you will find will be manufactured in either 1917 or 1918.

 

Earlier coats are harder to find and sometimes these will have rimless eagle buttons. Several months ago I bought a circa 1910-1912 service coat from Jeff which has rimless eagle buttons and the cuffs have pointed stitching. The contract tag was a pain to look at b/c it was located under the lining, I think near a pocket.

 

Would it be worthwhile to start a reference string here showing QM-tagged WW1 era coats? I was thinking of both wool and cotton, officers and EM's separately to prevent confusion. There are certainly plenty of variations to show on QM-made stuff.

 

If there is any encouragement, I can photo my stuff and describe same, then others could chime in.

 

Whadya think?

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New Romantic

Sounds like a great idea Gil, collectors would really appreciate that. Two topics, one for wool, the other for cotton would be great. Could we wait a couple of days before doing this? I'm finally getting a mannequin torso which should arrive tommorrow.

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Sounds like a great idea Gil, collectors would really appreciate that. Two topics, one for wool, the other for cotton would be great. Could we wait a couple of days before doing this? I'm finally getting a mannequin torso which should arrive tommorrow.

 

Sounds like a plan. It'll take me a couple of days to dig things out and take the photos. I need to find the article I did for AAMUC FOOTLOCKER abut 20 years ago too as a guide. I would expect to have at least 5-7 issue variations, plus nearly that in officers, though the primary difference there will be in fabric weight since they were private purchase.

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New Romantic
Sounds like a plan. It'll take me a couple of days to dig things out and take the photos. I need to find the article I did for AAMUC FOOTLOCKER abut 20 years ago too as a guide. I would expect to have at least 5-7 issue variations, plus nearly that in officers, though the primary difference there will be in fabric weight since they were private purchase.

 

Great, start the topic when you're ready and the rest of us will fill in from there. Will you do a seperate topic on private tailored coats?

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Great, start the topic when you're ready and the rest of us will fill in from there. Will you do a seperate topic on private tailored coats?

 

I just exchanged an idea with Admin Craig Pickrall. He is in agreement that what I will eventually put together on WW1 EM uniforms will eventually go into a uniform section in the reference area. I will start taking pix of EM stuff this weekend, officer stuff later. I have unearthed the FOOTLOCKER article and some other reference material, so I am ready to go.

 

I think I have examples of the major variations. The only one I lack is the broad arrow-marked British contract version with the 4 outside patch pockets. (I do have the one with inside hung pockets.) Can anyone help with this?

 

I am not sure what can be said about private purchase coats worn by EM's that would not be covered in the officer section.

 

Getting decent photos of these may be a challenge. I may post line drawings from FOOTLOCKER and then photo details as noted.

 

Any thoughts?

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New Romantic
I just exchanged an idea with Admin Craig Pickrall. He is in agreement that what I will eventually put together on WW1 EM uniforms will eventually go into a uniform section in the reference area. I will start taking pix of EM stuff this weekend, officer stuff later. I have unearthed the FOOTLOCKER article and some other reference material, so I am ready to go.

 

I think I have examples of the major variations. The only one I lack is the broad arrow-marked British contract version with the 4 outside patch pockets. (I do have the one with inside hung pockets.) Can anyone help with this?

 

I am not sure what can be said about private purchase coats worn by EM's that would not be covered in the officer section.

 

Getting decent photos of these may be a challenge. I may post line drawings from FOOTLOCKER and then photo details as noted.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Gil, you're in luck, I have a British made coat with the outer pockets. As for other coats I pretty much have what you probably have, but there may be differences b/w wool quality, contract dates, etc.

 

Coats I can contribute to the post are 1910-1912 coat, Apr 1917 dated M1912 coat, several variations of the M1917, a "rough cut" coat, and the British one I mentioned above.

 

I'm still waiting for the manniquin torso. If you're going to shoot your coats this weekend I'll probably take care of mine on Sat night.

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Getting decent photos of these may be a challenge. I may post line drawings from FOOTLOCKER and then photo details as noted.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Gil:

 

I just did a quick search in our database for Country = US, Era = WWI, Type = Uniforms. Results are 1,958 items. That will include some overcoats, breeches, etc. but the vast majority are coats or uniform groups. I should have some photos of most of these.

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