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Correct Thread for USAAF Flight Jacket


384thBG
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This is my first post here, so please bear with me. I've searched the site but was unable to find related topics. I'm replacing a shredded knitted cuff on my original B-10 jacket with an original cuff from a door jacket of the same age. I don't have sewing thread specifications for the jacket, so I'm left guessing or matching the size of the thread it used. My best guess is cotton 40/3 thread. I have old thread that was removed from the jacket that I can use as a reference.

 

A second part of my request is regarding sourcing and using original period thread. I'm watching Ebay, but someone here may have or know of a source for OD thread for this jacket. I know new thread is available, but I'd like to use the original if possible.

 

This is for a display at the 3894th Bomb Group Reunion at the 8th Air Force Historical Society Reunion in New Orleans Sept 27 - Oct. 1, 2017.

 

Thanks in advance for any ideas or assistance!

 

Chris Wilkinson

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I dont know that using original thread would be a good idea unless you can see it in person before you buy it and give it a good look over. I have thread from the 1880's and forward... most of the older threads (about 30 years and older) have lost their strength and cant even be used without constantly breaking. I'd personally suggest looking for sewing kits or sewing machines from the 30's-50's and see if they have thread you can use and if that doesnt work out then find a decent modern recreation of the thread or the closest thing to it that you can find.

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phantomfixer

don't know about sizes of thread..but I would go with new production cotton thread for the strength...old cotton might or might not be as strong...but why take the chance...new cotton thread is worth the preservation process

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I agree. Unless the desire is to hide the repair from a potential buyer(and that shouldn't be), there is some latitude here.

Of course no one would suggest just any poly or nylon thread but a good cotton thread, even if mercerized, would work. I have found that most are tempted to use too heavy a thread and assume the military used only super thick stuff. Sure it was heavy for the time but not upholstery thick. Much of it has frayed and loosened and now looks thicker as well.

Forget your local Hancock or Joanns. I like Sulky 12wt cotton for most fabric clothing items and caps. Generic #16-4 cotton button thread is good for heavier jackets but might not run in a domestic machine. Finding the correct color for you might take a little trial and error.

How about pics of your repair?

Dave

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I agree. Unless the desire is to hide the repair from a potential buyer(and that shouldn't be), there is some latitude here.

Of course no one would suggest just any poly or nylon thread but a good cotton thread, even if mercerized, would work. I have found that most are tempted to use too heavy a thread and assume the military used only super thick stuff. Sure it was heavy for the time but not upholstery thick. Much of it has frayed and loosened and now looks thicker as well.

Forget your local Hancock or Joanns. I like Sulky 12wt cotton for most fabric clothing items and caps. Generic #16-4 cotton button thread is good for heavier jackets but might not run in a domestic machine. Finding the correct color for you might take a little trial and error.

How about pics of your repair?

Dave

 

Thank you for the information! Using original thread is not to hide the work, but to be as authentic as possible. I'm not reselling. Its for a temporary display at the 384th Bomb Group reunion this September. But I hope we (the Group) can create a permanent display with it some day.

 

I removed the knit cuff so there's not much to see, but I can post a pic soon. The sleeve has not been opened up.

 

The thread I pulled from the cuff was fine, three strand OD, and sewn in fairly (small) stitches. So I agree the thread is not heavy. I'm looking for comparative graphs of thread sizes online to learn what exactly it is. But maybe I should just take it with me to a fabric store to compare! Ha!

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don't know about sizes of thread..but I would go with new production cotton thread for the strength...old cotton might or might not be as strong...but why take the chance...new cotton thread is worth the preservation process

 

That makes sense, preserving is my goal, not reselling. Thank you for your input.

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