SDC Posted June 23, 2017 Share #1 Posted June 23, 2017 This was given to me by a friend on a recent trip to Italy. It was recovered in an area where my father's unit was engaged in Northern Italy. I'd love to identify the maker but can only make out the "U" in the U.S. line. I don't have the knowledge nor enough bayonets for reference to figure it out, if that's even possible based on the single letter. Any expert opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camillus Posted June 23, 2017 Share #2 Posted June 23, 2017 looks like an M! bayonet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKIPH Posted June 23, 2017 Share #3 Posted June 23, 2017 Not much to go on. There is kind of a way, but it's very thin. Remove the grips, check out the maker marks or numbers on each grip. Gary Cunningham has the grip makers by name and numbers in his book, but, I don't think there was any particular grip assigned to any bayonet manufacturer. But, a general search of grips by a group of collectors could possibly get you in the ballpark if certain makers had a tendency to match the grips you have. Like I stated very thin evidence of actual bayonet maker. More than likely every manufacturer of bayonets got a mix of whatever grips were available. SKIP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorin6 Posted June 23, 2017 Share #4 Posted June 23, 2017 If you can get the grips off, look on the underside of the guard. These were marked with the manufacturer's initials, with the exception of Wilde Tool, which marked their guards with WT on the top. Pictures will help. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKIPH Posted June 23, 2017 Share #5 Posted June 23, 2017 Bill-Good point! Much better than looking at grips! SKIP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactroop Posted June 23, 2017 Share #6 Posted June 23, 2017 Not intending to hijack this thread. I'm interested in what people would do with a relic in similar condition in order to best preserve it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKIPH Posted June 23, 2017 Share #7 Posted June 23, 2017 I'd get it framed, with a tag stating it's a WW2 m1 Bayonet, recovered in Northern Italy. Preservation as far as condition, not real sure, it's pretty well deteriorated. SKIP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambo35 Posted June 24, 2017 Share #8 Posted June 24, 2017 Use a tooth brush and RIG grease and "work" it in all the "nooks-n-cranies" then wipe the entire bayonet carefully with an old handtowel to remove any excess. I did this to a relic US hand grenade from Guam, it came out well. Chuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorin6 Posted June 24, 2017 Share #9 Posted June 24, 2017 Not intending to hijack this thread. I'm interested in what people would do with a relic in similar condition in order to best preserve it. In that you are trying to preserve this from deteriorating any more, don't do any rubbing or you will see parts of the bayonet flaking off. Not sure how using a soft toothbrush would affect the metal, but I would coat it with oil (I'd probably use Kroil), let the oil dry and vaporize, then put it behind some glass with a tag/note saying where it came from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDC Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share #10 Posted June 26, 2017 Thanks for the responses. The grip screw seems pretty well fused in place and I don't want to do any damage so will leave it alone and display it at some point. For now it will stay in the safe with a Golden Rod along with the dug M1 barreled receiver found in the same area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDC Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share #11 Posted June 28, 2017 After working on this a bit with a light brass brushing and Kroil, along with various light angles and magnifier ... I'm pretty sure I see the "U C" on the top line. The "S" and flaming bomb have emerged as well. Thanks again for the help, any recommendations for a display case source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactroop Posted June 28, 2017 Share #12 Posted June 28, 2017 Good luck with it. Cool relic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattS Posted June 29, 2017 Share #13 Posted June 29, 2017 Hobby Lobby has different sized display cases, just be careful about any foam backing that might adhere to the oily section of the blade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDC Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share #14 Posted July 2, 2017 One more question on this ... the grip screw is just not coming out. I don't want to do any damage but I want to give all metal a good soak in Kroil. Will doing so damage the grips if I leave them on? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactroop Posted July 2, 2017 Share #15 Posted July 2, 2017 I'm assuming you've been putting some Kroil on the exposed ends of the screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDC Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share #16 Posted July 2, 2017 Yep ... for a few days ... even tried heating it up with a soldering iron but no movement. It must be all fused together under the grips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactroop Posted July 2, 2017 Share #17 Posted July 2, 2017 Sounds like it to me. At this point I'd take my chances by leaving it. Hate to make things worst by trying to make them better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankerman Posted July 2, 2017 Share #18 Posted July 2, 2017 agree with sactroop...good advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccyooper Posted July 6, 2017 Share #19 Posted July 6, 2017 cool artifact. you can do electrolysis to stabilize the rust but then you will have to coat it with something. For longer term a rust inhibitor will work, I have heard of people using a product such as Gemplers, or even rustoleum. I believe most museums use wax for long term storage and preservation, with a heated wax such as Briwax, etc. or a microcrystalline wax ( such as renaissance wax) that is rubbed on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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