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Relic M1 Bayonet


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This was given to me by a friend on a recent trip to Italy. It was recovered in an area where my father's unit was engaged in Northern Italy. I'd love to identify the maker but can only make out the "U" in the U.S. line. I don't have the knowledge nor enough bayonets for reference to figure it out, if that's even possible based on the single letter. Any expert opinions?

 

 

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Not much to go on. There is kind of a way, but it's very thin. Remove the grips, check out the maker marks or numbers on each grip. Gary Cunningham has the grip makers by name and numbers in his book, but, I don't think there was any particular grip assigned to any bayonet manufacturer. But, a general search of grips by a group of collectors could possibly get you in the ballpark if certain makers had a tendency to match the grips you have. Like I stated very thin evidence of actual bayonet maker. More than likely every manufacturer of bayonets got a mix of whatever grips were available. SKIP

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If you can get the grips off, look on the underside of the guard. These were marked with the manufacturer's initials, with the exception of Wilde Tool, which marked their guards with WT on the top.

Pictures will help.

Good luck.

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Not intending to hijack this thread. I'm interested in what people would do with a relic in similar condition in order to best preserve it.

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I'd get it framed, with a tag stating it's a WW2 m1 Bayonet, recovered in Northern Italy. Preservation as far as condition, not real sure, it's pretty well deteriorated. SKIP

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Use a tooth brush and RIG grease and "work" it in all the "nooks-n-cranies" then wipe the entire bayonet carefully with an old handtowel to remove any excess. I did this to a relic US hand grenade from Guam, it came out well.

 

Chuck.

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Not intending to hijack this thread. I'm interested in what people would do with a relic in similar condition in order to best preserve it.

In that you are trying to preserve this from deteriorating any more, don't do any rubbing or you will see parts of the bayonet flaking off. Not sure how using a soft toothbrush would affect the metal, but I would coat it with oil (I'd probably use Kroil), let the oil dry and vaporize, then put it behind some glass with a tag/note saying where it came from.

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Thanks for the responses. The grip screw seems pretty well fused in place and I don't want to do any damage so will leave it alone and display it at some point. For now it will stay in the safe with a Golden Rod along with the dug M1 barreled receiver found in the same area.

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After working on this a bit with a light brass brushing and Kroil, along with various light angles and magnifier ... I'm pretty sure I see the "U C" on the top line. The "S" and flaming bomb have emerged as well. Thanks again for the help, any recommendations for a display case source?

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Hobby Lobby has different sized display cases, just be careful about any foam backing that might adhere to the oily section of the blade.

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One more question on this ... the grip screw is just not coming out. I don't want to do any damage but I want to give all metal a good soak in Kroil. Will doing so damage the grips if I leave them on? Thanks

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Yep ... for a few days ... even tried heating it up with a soldering iron but no movement. It must be all fused together under the grips.

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Sounds like it to me. At this point I'd take my chances by leaving it. Hate to make things worst by trying to make them better.

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cool artifact. you can do electrolysis to stabilize the rust but then you will have to coat it with something. For longer term a rust inhibitor will work, I have heard of people using a product such as Gemplers, or even rustoleum. I believe most museums use wax for long term storage and preservation, with a heated wax such as Briwax, etc. or a microcrystalline wax ( such as renaissance wax) that is rubbed on.

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