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Light rust removal


sundance
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I recently got a bargain priced Enfield pattern 1853 that has a very nice stock (I'll try to get some pics up) but some rust on the full length of the barrel. It's got the "been there" look I like and, to me, the rust was not a deal breaker. I would like to get some of the rust off if possible without removing the barrel from the stock. Please hit me with any advice you care to pass on and thanks. Also, any good way to determine whether it was a Confederate used piece? It has the Birmingham Small Arms Trade stamp which I' m told was used on arms not intended for British military use and it's marked "Tower 1863"

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Shakethetrees

It would be best if you could remove the barrel to protect the wood.

 

I've always felt that any immersion or paint-on rust removers were too aggressive. I've seen some horrendous results, but I have no experience with the product mentioned above. I've always felt that you have more control using my method rather than going on a manufacturers word and taking a leap of faith.

 

Something I've used in the past, and on an 1853 Enfield, is WD-40 and Monel or nickel silver wool, not steel wool.

 

If used with a lot of oil or WD-40 to act as a buffer, you can remove rust without harming any remaining blue.

 

The oil or WD-40 is critical, though. Use light even pressure in long strokes. Your aim is to get the rust off in stages, not all at once.

 

After several passes wipe off the dirty WD-40. Get down to clean metal and have a good look. If it looks OK, stop. If not, have another go at it.

 

The trick is to not be in a hurry and use plenty of WD-40.

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Thanks for the advice. Perhaps I'll look into getting the barrel out of the stock. My reservation is that after being mated for 153 years I may end up harming what appears to be a really nice stock. Or, I could leave it as is.

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Thanks for the advice. Perhaps I'll look into getting the barrel out of the stock. My reservation is that after being mated for 153 years I may end up harming what appears to be a really nice stock. Or, I could leave it as is.

 

The problem with removing oxidation (i.e. rust) is, should you get too aggressive you may wind up harming the original finish....Especially if it winds up having an unnatural polished appearance....You have than reduced the value of the piece.....I would put a coat of oil on it and enjoy it for what it is....Bodes

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This will sound ridiculous at first (it did to me when first it was recommended by a friend) but I have had unbelievably surprising luck by soaking the item in new Coca-Cola. I had an M1917 Winchester bayonet whose blade had a bit of a rust problem. I soaked it in a length of PVC pipe with enough Coke to cover the blade and guard (laying flat) for 36 hours then took a green Scotchbrite kitchen scrubbing pad and VERY, VERY gently & slowly simply wiped off the rust under running water. Be careful not to get carried away by how easily it removes the rust without scratching the surface, because the results WILL surprise you. I have done this numerous times, but so far only on blades. Do remove the metal from the stock.

 

I know that steels and finishes were different in 1853 than in 1917, but the Coke will loosen the rust without being harsh on your metal or finish ... and it is cheap. Try it!

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Has anyone else seen the recent news about a laser-based treatment for removal of rust?

 

I cannot see how, for certain, the laser removes ONLY the rust and not the underlying body of metal(s) with it - but, maybe?

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Shakethetrees

This will sound ridiculous at first (it did to me when first it was recommended by a friend) but I have had unbelievably surprising luck by soaking the item in new Coca-Cola. I had an M1917 Winchester bayonet whose blade had a bit of a rust problem. I soaked it in a length of PVC pipe with enough Coke to cover the blade and guard (laying flat) for 36 hours then took a green Scotchbrite kitchen scrubbing pad and VERY, VERY gently & slowly simply wiped off the rust under running water. Be careful not to get carried away by how easily it removes the rust without scratching the surface, because the results WILL surprise you. I have done this numerous times, but so far only on blades. Do remove the metal from the stock.

 

I know that steels and finishes were different in 1853 than in 1917, but the Coke will loosen the rust without being harsh on your metal or finish ... and it is cheap. Try it!

 

 

Yeah, soaking it in Coke might loosen the rust and not harm the finish, but the scotch brite surely will!

 

Removing rust by soaking in some solution or other liquid is haphazard. You lose control over the process. Let's say you let it sit for 36 hours. Unless you're checking it every half hour or thereabouts, the process could start attacking parts you do not want to be attacked.

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I've heard that the green Scotch Brite pads can be abrasive, I believe that's why Reaper stressed that any scrubbing with them should be "very very" gentle. I've heard that there are other Scotch Brite pads of a different color which are less abrasive but I've never seen them. Thanks for the advice all.

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The oil or WD-40 is critical, though. Use light even pressure in long strokes. Your aim is to get the rust off in stages, not all at once.

 

After several passes wipe off the dirty WD-40. Get down to clean metal and have a good look. If it looks OK, stop. If not, have another go at it.

 

The trick is to not be in a hurry and use plenty of WD-40.

 

I use the Scotch green nylon pads and they are even softer yet will still get the active brown rust harming the underlying surface. I've used this on many, many rusted knives, swords and bayonets from all eras with great results.

 

Leaving rust, as suggested by someone, is never a good idea: brown rust will spread and the original finish is lost for sure.

 

I soak the blade and the Scotchbrite pad and every so often wipe off the blade with a rag and spary again. A can of WD-40 does not last long, as you noted.

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I use the Scotch green nylon pads and they are even softer yet will still get the active brown rust harming the underlying surface. I've used this on many, many rusted knives, swords and bayonets from all eras with great results.

 

Leaving rust, as suggested by someone, is never a good idea: brown rust will spread and the original finish is lost for sure.

 

I soak the blade and the Scotchbrite pad and every so often wipe off the blade with a rag and spary again. A can of WD-40 does not last long, as you noted.

 

Obviously you don't know much about Japanese swords than....It is advised to never to clean the tang, even if brown rust is present....Value will be greatly affected....Bodes

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Obviously you don't know much about Japanese swords than....It is advised to never to clean the tang, even if brown rust is present....Value will be greatly affected....Bodes

 

I never let rusty katanas in the house - a Type 30 bayonet, that's different. :)

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Japanese swords always seem to be a different animal.

 

Not really....I would think though if it were harmful to the piece, wouldn't they recommend it's removal?....People want things that are appealing to the eye, and that is one of the reasons many firearms have been unnecessarily altered.....Bodes

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Not really....I would think though if it were harmful to the piece, wouldn't they recommend it's removal?....People want things that are appealing to the eye, and that is one of the reasons many firearms have been unnecessarily altered.....Bodes

 

No, Japanese swords are a different beast to some, but outside of the katana collectors who only look at their swords after first doing a ritual tea ceremony, the average collector does not want brown rust on a katana, a last-ditch bayonet or their Swiss Army knife. I can't think of one instance where brown rust is desireable (or non destructive) on steel or iron that is not part of an art work.

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I do pretty much like Shakethetrees does except I use hoppe's #9 bore cleaner instead of WD-40. It's very good at loosening the rust and will change any left over to a non active black. I haven't had any problems with it attacking any blueing yet. Scotch brite makes a white pad that in my experience is milder than 0000 steel wool. When it comes to acids, including Coke, I've had trouble with it reacting with blueing.

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