Jeeper704 Posted February 3, 2015 Share #26 Posted February 3, 2015 A lot of times, the TDs were "abused" and put into artillery role. Not what they were intended for. Communications was with a FDC like mpguy80/08 stated. At maneuvers, they also used signal flags (every vehicle carried a set of those). Erwin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpguy80/08 Posted February 4, 2015 Share #27 Posted February 4, 2015 The FDC would communicate with the forward Observers by radio. Commands were sent to the guns by wire and field phone. The methods hadn't changed much through the 80s when I was trained in indirect fire support. I received training as both Forward Observer and Fire Direction Computing. The tools of my trade were the AN/GRC-160 radio and the TA-312 and TA-1 field phones. In WWII, A forward Observer team might use anything from a BC-1000 "Walkie Talkie" back pack radio to the BC1306, SCR-610/620, or SCR-506/508 mounted on a jeep. The FDC would use similar radios to receive the call for fire, then transmit the gun commands to the guns by field phone. Keep in mind that the 60mm mortars were usually in full view of the targets they were engaging. 81mm mortars could fire up to about 4000 yards, and the 4.2 inch mortar out to about 5500. The motorized tank destroyers such as the M6, T19 and M3 (74mm) GMC were normally used as direct fire weapons against tanks and fortifications. The M6 was a 37mm gun mounted on the Dodge WC51 Weapons carrier, redesignated WC-55 and standardized as the M6. It was nicknamed the Fargo as it was built in Fargo North Dakota. The 37mm gun had an effective range of 500 yards and could fire AP, HE and Cannister rounds. The M6 was introduced into Service in North Africa where it was promptly shown to be deficient as a Tank Destroyer. Remaining M6's were pulled and reconverted back to WC-51 Weapons carriers. The M3 (75mm) Gun Motor Carriage mounted the M1897 75mm Field gun on the M3 Halftrack. The installation was tested as the T12 and was so successful, it was standardized as the M3 (75mm) GMC. It could fire Armor Piercing, HE and smoke with a Max effective range of 1000yards in the Tank Destroyer role. The HE and smoke rounds made it an attractive alternative to higher caliber artillery during the shortage of artillery shells 155mm and above that became evident in late 1943. When supplies of the newer M1897 gun grew short, the older versions of the gun were substituted and the vehicle designated M3A1 GMC. The T-19 HMC (Howitzer Motor Carriage) was indeed, a stopgap measure till the fielding of the M7 HMC "Priest". The M3 Halftrack was used to mount the M2 or M2A1 105mm Howitzer and usually included the splash shields. The T-19 was intended for indirect fire support, not a tank destroyer, though it could be used in that role if needed. A 105mm round could do some serious damage to a tank. They were fielded during the Torch landings and took part in the Kasserine pass battles, landed in Sicily, though by this time they weeing replaced with the M7 Priest, and also came ashore during the Dragoon landings in Southern France. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share #28 Posted February 4, 2015 Thank you very much for these additional informations! They will help to find and build realistic figures for the T19. I`m thinking of an Arty crew. We`ll see when the MB Arty crew has arrived. Thanks again everybudy for thei input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share #29 Posted February 15, 2015 Man! What a week, glad it's over. Since I'm one of the happy people not running mad while carneval, I have some time for my own and ....modeling! Gave the T19 some light grey primer and some pre-shading today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share #30 Posted February 17, 2015 Next step. Several layers of LIFECOLOR Olive Drab acrylics . I must say I'm happy with the result. I like that dull appearance of the color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtyScout Posted February 17, 2015 Share #31 Posted February 17, 2015 So far, it's looking good. Semper Fi. Manny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share #32 Posted February 20, 2015 Thanks very much, Manny! Decals, one of the absolute advantages of DRAGON model kits. There more than enough to build several variations (and to replace decals on other kits). As usual the decals come without that hated glossy borders. I prepared the surface with MICRO-SET and painted the decals with MICRO-SOL after they were attached. The star on the grill was cut in 4 pieces and applied separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share #33 Posted February 20, 2015 After the decals have dried completely the whole kit received a washing with CITADEL Agrax Earthshade. Purpose is to darken the deeper areas of the kit and modulate the OD color. You can also use several other washes or filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry K. Posted February 20, 2015 Share #34 Posted February 20, 2015 Very Nice! Makes me want to start modeling again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share #35 Posted February 20, 2015 Thank you very much for your kind words, Terry! Yes, do so, it's obviously never too late... Pigments, for me one of the most important "inventions" since I stopped modeling in the 1980's. I want to build a T19 for the North African theater so dust is a must. For the chasis I mixed MIG pigments "Gulf War" and "Europe Dust" in a ratio of 3:1. with water. I painted the complete chassis with that mix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share #36 Posted February 20, 2015 ...voila Make sure to cover all deeper areas of wheels, tracks etc. The dry mix clearly visible on the left: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share #37 Posted February 20, 2015 After the pigment mix has dried, I wiped the complete chassis with a semi-soft brush. The pigments remain in the deeper areas of the kit's structure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share #38 Posted February 20, 2015 ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share #39 Posted February 20, 2015 I brushed the dry pigments directly on the body (is that the right term for the upper part of the kit?) of the T19, making sure that the chassis and the floor of the body are the mos dusty parts of the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share #40 Posted February 20, 2015 ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Meatcan Posted February 21, 2015 Share #41 Posted February 21, 2015 That's turning out really nice Lars. The pigments create some great effects.Thanks for keeping us all updated on your build. Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtyScout Posted February 21, 2015 Share #42 Posted February 21, 2015 So far that is looking very, very nice. Thanks for the updates and especially the photos. Semper Fi. Manny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backtheattack Posted February 21, 2015 Share #43 Posted February 21, 2015 What a great work, must say this again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share #44 Posted February 22, 2015 Guys, thank you very much for your nice words; I really appreciate your kind feedback! After assembling the main parts I airbrushed the whole kit with a mix of eart sand color, and matt varnish. I'm now happy with the dusty look the T19 would surely have had in a desert scenario. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proud Kraut Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share #45 Posted February 22, 2015 Next steps will be the assembling and painting of the small parts and the crew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry K. Posted February 22, 2015 Share #46 Posted February 22, 2015 Your work is fantastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpguy80/08 Posted February 23, 2015 Share #47 Posted February 23, 2015 Awesome Job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwb123 Posted February 23, 2015 Share #48 Posted February 23, 2015 Super job, Lars! Interestingly, the name "Evelyn" would have been common in the 1920's through 1940's. It was my mother-in-laws name. Today's generation would probably shorten it to "Eve". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeeper704 Posted February 23, 2015 Share #49 Posted February 23, 2015 WOW a very life-like kit you built there! I sure can picture it in the North African desert. Erwin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Dentino Posted February 23, 2015 Share #50 Posted February 23, 2015 Another INCREDIBLE model Lars. Thanks for sharing your step by step secrets of how you create such amazing works! I really enjoy following your threads, especially this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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