1947 Willys CJ2A MB Restomod

[ClaptonIsGod]

After a years-long hiatus, I've decided to return to the forum to post progress of my biggest undertaking yet.

 

I suppose I should preface this thread with a caveat that I have read the relevant recent posts and know there may be some who naysay this project, but this was the only old Willys available even close to locally, MBs are getting increasingly rare and expensive, and the price was more than right for what it is, so to each their own. If the moderators feel that because this car began as a CJ (even though I'll hopefully have as close to an MB as possible at the end) it doesn't belong here, then do as you wish.

 

I was looking around on the local Craigslist for a classic car to do as a project, and looked at several different options (a 1965 Fury, 1962 IHC Scout, etc.) but couldn't find one in the right price range that really did it for me. Miraculously, in one late night search, I came across this 1947 CJ2A and immediately knew it was "the one." According to the seller, this jeep spent most of its life with the Maine forestry service, and he then bought it with plans of making it sporty for his wife. After having it for a year or two, the seller ran out of time to work on it and put it up for sale. I went to look at it, saw it fire right up, and shook on it to pick it up the next day (it was being kept in a garage, although the picture shows it outside). Lo and behold, we came back with a rented car trailer to load it up and it wouldn't budge. Somehow, the emergency brake froze (the release handle is long gone), so we told the seller to call us back when it was rolling. After driving home and returning the trailer, we got a call. Next came re-renting the same trailer, driving back, and loading it up (still on the same day). Unloading it off the trailer proved to be extremely interesting without brakes, but fortunately I placed chocks in the right places behind the trailer and they were enough to stop it in combination with pushing against it and not getting run over (in retrospect, we should've tied the front bumper to the trailer with heavy-duty rope as a failsafe). After it sat in our yard for a day we were lucky enough to locate a Willys/Jeep specialty garage, and had it taken there on a flatbed for mechanical work.

 

The good:

- Price was incredible

- Engine had some work done by the last owner, fires right up

- Drives

- Body is mostly good (except for where said in the bad), frame looked to be clean and straight

- I'm only the third owner

- Nice enough to (hopefully) not be a huge amount of work, but rough enough that I have no reservations about turning it into an MB clone

 

The bad:

- No brakes (hopefully it'll just need a new master cylinder)

- Emergency brake handle/cable are gone, as well as the throttle knob

- Engine needs a new water pump, carburetor tube has to be installed

- Windshield frame is from a CJ3

- Rear body panel has a CJ7 tailgate welded to it, and is in pretty rough shape

- Seat cushions are junk

- Some minor rust on the body brackets located in the front wheel wells

- Rims/tires will have to go (but they're in great shape and will fetch a good price, so I guess that's a plus)

- Minor rust holes in the passenger side floor and one small hole near the back seat

- Never been titled/registered, so it should be an interesting process in this state to say the least

- Horn doesn't work

- 4WD or high/low selector is frozen

 

The game plan:

- See where repairs with the mechanic go

- Buy proper combat rims, inner tubes and tires, then sell existing ones

- Replace windshield frame and grille (along with headlights) with MB reproduction parts

- Replace seat cushions with OD canvas reproductions, install seatbelts (and maybe the safety straps where doors would otherwise go)

- Cut off the bad rear panel, sell the CJ7 tailgate then weld in a panel made for an MB (and add jerry can and spare tire mounts)

- General body work all around, replace pieces as needed (steering wheel, shifter knobs/boots, gauges, etc.), add handles, tool kit, etc.

- Paint as a tribute USAAF jeep for the 14th AAF (to look like a jeep my grandfather might've driven while stationed at Kunming Airfield in China)

- Install a frame for the top, get proper canvas

 

Pictures (engine bay and birds-eye are from the seller):

 

Headlights at night:

 

If anybody has any advice who has previously done a similar conversion, or anyone has photos of USAAF jeeps in general (14th AAF would be great), any info will be much appreciated. Thanks for reading, and I'm looking forward to sharing my progress with you all.

[Garandomatic]

Go for it. I'd do the same myself. My pay scale will never allow for a real MB.

[bheskett]

Have fun with it, it should be a great project. I had one many years ago along with an MB. The MB I restored then sold to my nephew. The CJ I drove into the ground and had a blast doing it. Keep us posted.

 

Bob

[ClaptonIsGod]

Well, might as well give the first update:

I reattached the firewall data plates (removed by previous seller because he thought they would fall off (?)) today. I bought reproductions and had them engraved, read somewhere to use machine screws, tried to mount them and the screws were too thick. Then, I figured out they were sheet metal screws, so I went back to the garage (about twenty minutes from my house), tried to mount the new plates, and the holes didn't line up . Wound up just putting the originals back on, as they're not actually in danger of disintegrating. Serial number is 883XX.

 

As far as actual, respectable mechanical work is concerned: Progress was a little slow initially at the garage as they needed to order parts, but when I visited the jeep today it had an emergency brake handle installed, water pump was removed, and it's well on its way. I was talking with the garage owner, who pointed out to me that the jeep has a Solex carburetor. Since it's not an authentic MB and he said it's better than a stock one, I think I'll leave it installed. He also pointed out that the bottom of the air cleaner has been welded to repair rust, so I'll probably have to replace that eventually.

[ClaptonIsGod]

Also, my frame data plate is intact but painted over, anyone have any suggestions for removing the paint without damaging the plate? Thanks.

 

Edit: Meant to say previous owner, not previous seller, in the last post. I don't plan on selling this jeep anytime soon . Additionally, turns out I'm not the third owner. I dealt mostly with the seller's friend, but found out more from the seller afterwards while trying to locate a title/establish a chain of ownership. The history I've gathered is Maine forestry service -> mechanic in Maine -> last owner -> me. There could be more, but that's what I know. Starting the process with a title company, fingers crossed.

[phantomfixer]

Zip strip should help ya with the paint removal...nice project...always good to see another flat fender back on the road

Bensinger is a good source for parts as is Army jeep parts, Ron Fitzpatrick just to name a few...Bensinger knows both the 2A and the MB/GPW he can even supply a MB2A body...anyway..

 

good luck enjoy the journey

 

here is a 46 2A conversion

[Willys44]

Yes go for it, you will have the fun of your life when you are finished !

(but green not red )

 

[ClaptonIsGod]

Thanks for the replies, always reassuring to see photos of finished jeeps . Gives me hope. Phantom, I have a lot of questions for you, so please bear with me (assuming it's yours):

- Is it 6 or 12 volt?

- If it's 12, how did you deal with the blackout lights and the tail lights?

- Is that an MB windshield frame? Were there any difficulties installing it?

- Is that a "Willys" stamped hood and were there any issues spraying numbers over the lettering?

- Does yours have the grooves for the tools (if not, how does that work)?

- How did you determine where to add the handles and loops?

- Did you keep the tailgate, or replace it with an MB rear center panel?

- Is that the CJ2A rear seat, or did you manage to install one that folds like an MB's?

Lastly, are those MB top bows? Thanks, and sorry for all these questions, but it's invigorating to find someone else who has already done what I'm about to do.

 

Willys44, that's a beautiful jeep. I was in Copenhagen December 2013, too bad I didn't chance upon it then. Did find a fair amount of cider though.

 

What's the verdict on Kaiser Willys?

[phantomfixer]

It was a 6 volt converted to 12 you can get 12 volt bulbs to fit in the sockets...the only big change that I recall when switching to 12v is the fuel gauge...it runs off 6v and will work on 12V but could and will burn out sooner....

Yes it is a MB windshield with CJ adjusting arms ( am working on replacing them with MB arms) it bolts right up no sweat

 

Yes Willys Stampings on hood I used a reverse stencil, so painting the numbers was easy, spray and peel...

 

No tool indents...I did have to weld a plate to the body, just bellow the filler neck so I could attach the footman loop...The ax is pretty tight to the body, the shovel fit fine...

 

I used measurements from the Jeep that was on display at the Aberdeen Proving Ground to measure for the hardware placement...

 

I have a tailgate I had to pad out the spare tire mount to clear the lip on the tailgate...I have the rear section of an MB that I will get around to splicing in.....complete with stiffeners

I used a CJ repop seat as I did not have the hardware for the rear seat...you can go either way...

The top bows are MB repop from Bensinger

 

A lot of guys convert their CJ to MB,, and some take their MB and make them into rock crawlers...it is all what you want to do with your jeep..

 

Enjoy the project....they are lots of fun

 

John

[Garandomatic]

From my old car days, I recall guys would buy parts for 80s or so Dodge products. Forget the name of the piece, but it went inline with the wiring and took 12v down to 6v. Seems some or all Dodges used 6 volt gauges back then to avoid designing new ones. Google "6 volt conversion" and some combination of Chrysler or Dodge and gauges and it ought to come up.

 

Your horn (if it exists) will be much louder as well!

[phantomfixer]

There is a widget out there like Garand says,,easy to do once found...

 

The CJ2A forum is great help with the fuel gauge conversion...me I bought a 12v gauge 25 bucks ands looks the part...hated to give up my USA made 6V though....

 

G503 has a nice thread about rebuilding the gauge and testing it...

[Garandomatic]

Here's a fancy one, but not the super cheap Dodge part you can locate at the parts store.

 

http://www.vintageautogarage.com/12V-6V-Oil-Gas-Temp-Gauge-Voltage-Reducer-p/vreg06703.htm

[ClaptonIsGod]

Thanks for all the help, I think most of the gauges need replacing anyways so I'll probably just end up getting 12v ones. Horn is still mounted, but I had the garage test it and unfortunately it's dead. Just two more questions for now, Phantom (though I'm sure I'll have more and I'm incredibly grateful for your guidance and patient answers): What paint did you use (it looks great and definitely the color I want mine to be), and how big is the backing plate for the loops by the gas tank? Thanks again.

 

Edit: I lied, I have one more (sorry). I think I read somewhere that it's hard pulling apart the grill blackout lights and you have to do some pretty serious modification, is this true?

[ClaptonIsGod]

Annnd the inevitable hidden problems with a seventy year old car are starting to surface. The engine has zero compression on cylinder #1, and it looks like pretty much the entire floor has been (poorly) replaced. Fingers crossed that when they take the head off it will just be the gaskets, and I'll need to figure out what to do about the floor. #1 is at 0, #2 is at 75, and #3 and #4 are at 150. From what I've read it seems like if two adjacent cylinders aren't working properly it's usually the gasket, so again, fingers crossed. Not really eager to pay for an engine rebuild on top of everything else.

[phantomfixer]

I used paint from Army Jeep Parts either 316 or 319 he will set ya straight on the code...

 

 

I used 1/8 steel plate and welded the lower half of the filler neck hole closed...can take some pics of the close up this weekend if warranted...the tank filler neck is just above the plate...If I had to do it again... I would take the tank and have a top filler welded on to the top of the tank and seal the side filler neck hole completely...maybe even weld in a MB style fuel tank well and put a MB fuel tank in

 

I put a MB grill on my 2A...they bolt right in place then of course the MB headlight buckets and blackout lights

 

John

[phantomfixer]

Floor replacement panels are available from several sources or bend your own and weld in place....

[ClaptonIsGod]

Thanks again for all your answers, just realized that you meant you put the plate on the front as opposed to the back of the side of the body. Plan is definitely to replace the grill and maybe turn the old one into a wall hanger. With the grill blackout lights, is it simple to swap out the bulbs? And yeah, I'll unfortunately probably need to buy a whole new floor panel. On the passenger side there's been a new plate added and the bend of the two planes has holes; on the driver side, the whole floor is weird steel (the cylinder access cover doesn't even sit properly) and it looks terrible. I'll have to see how much time I have to work on this (my time window is about ten weeks at 30 hours/week) but hopefully I'll be able to get everything done that I want to, budget permitting. This is definitely a serious bubba jeep. With your wiring, did you buy an MB harness or a CJ2A harness? I feel like the CJ2A harness would make sense for the vehicle, but at the same time wouldn't cover the blackout lights (but if I get an MB harness, I don't have a foot starter on my jeep?)

[phantomfixer]

for the blackout light ..are you talking about the marker lights in the grill or the blackout light on the fender? the grill marker light bulbs are easy enough to change...the blackout light, I have left inop...the MB was 6 v and I think (but not sure) the later jeeps and M151s used 24V blackout bulbs....

I rewired my jeep with a roll of black and white wire...the MB/2A harness is pretty simple to run...I have heard mixed reviews about the harness' on the market...some good some bad... I would love to score vintage wire and do it myself with correct new vintage wire....

 

 

Signed,

Bubba

[ClaptonIsGod]

for the blackout light ..are you talking about the marker lights in the grill or the blackout light on the fender? the grill marker light bulbs are easy enough to change...the blackout light, I have left inop...the MB was 6 v and I think (but not sure) the later jeeps and M151s used 24V blackout bulbs....

I rewired my jeep with a roll of black and white wire...the MB/2A harness is pretty simple to run...I have heard mixed reviews about the harness' on the market...some good some bad... I would love to score vintage wire and do it myself with correct new vintage wire....

 

 

Signed,

Bubba

 

I'd heard the grill lights were pretty hard to take apart to get at the bulbs, and that the tail lights could be a hassle too. I wasn't referring to your jeep as a Bubba jeep, I meant mine because someone along the way did a hack job of the floors, welded on a random front bumper, added a fuse box, made a mess out of the rear bumper, welded on a CJ7 tailgate, etc. Sorry if I offended you, that wasn't my intent. I think the plate below your filler neck looks really good.

[phantomfixer]

LOL I take no offense at all...not what I was implying....so no worries....me and bubba go waaaaaay back.....I think there is a bit of bubba in all of us, unless we all do a factory resto..... am more than happy to help

 

Will take some pics this weekend....

I was able to take my marker lights apart with the grill off... so getting to them wasn't too bad...MB tail lights can get pretty rusted up...

If you want to drive to DE you can have my MB rear section...or pay for the UPS shipping.....one of those things I will most likely never get around to doing....

 

John

[ClaptonIsGod]

Thanks for the generous offer, I'll let you keep it as I'm sure you'll want to do the swap too eventually. With the grill blackout lights, I don't mean getting them out of the grill, but rather once you have the bulb housing removed from the vehicle it seems like it's really hard to change the bulb from 6V to 12V. I saw a pair of grill blackout lights from India made in 12V, so I guess I could buy those worst case, but also confused on how to change the bulbs in the tail lights. I read that the blackout and tail light housings were made to be replaced if damaged, so access to the bulbs is difficult (?).

[phantomfixer]

I took apart MB tail lights for the AMC Museum...the hardest part was the corrosion issue. But construction was easy enough... the sockets looked like it would take a 12V bulb easy enough...Two screws hold the face plate on and the lenses pop out revealing the sockets....

[ClaptonIsGod]

So, a few questions for the markings experts:

• On the hood, were jeeps ever marked USAAF or since it was technically an army unit would the hood still be marked USA?
• What is the significance of the S on the end of the number? I know it means radio suppressed, but I don't quite understand what that means.
• For a vehicle attached to the headquarters of the 14th AAF, would the bumper read something like this (I found a photo of a 14th AAF jeep, so I have an idea of what the font should look like, but it wasn't an HQ jeep): 14THAAF HQ-# and same for the bumperettes? (and would there be a star in the middle of the bumper by the crank-start hole?)
• Would a jeep in China have the broken-circle star on the hood, a non-broken circle, or no circle at all?
• Is the proper location for the shipping information above the passenger step, or on the back half of that side panel? I've seen it both places but can't decide which looks better, so I figure I should go with whichever is accurate.

Thanks!

[phantomfixer]

I have seen some of the Follow me Jeeps painted with the USAAF on the hood...love the follow me jeeps so cool paint jobs..

 

radio surpressed I think is that everything is bonded and grounded...under the passenger seat is a box bolted through the side wall..on some jeeps...the ones with the S...you can see the four bolts that bolt the box to the jeep ....on the outside of the passenger side on the tub...what is in the box???check with the guys on the G503 forum...they know all the nuts and bolts...

I think the broken circle star was for the Normandy invasion to identify friendly jeeps versus captured jeeps used by the Germans...kinda like the invasion stripes on acft

[ClaptonIsGod]

First part just arrived, a 12V fender blackout lamp. Before I leave feedback for the seller I'd like to test it to make sure it works, what is the best way to do this?