Jump to content

Battle of Midway VT6 TBD-1 Devastator....Combat Vet


History Man
 Share

Recommended Posts

History Man

I just finished this kit today and thought I would post it for the forum....it was a side project that took center stage for a couple of days and I ended up really enjoying it. This is an older kit...the 1970's release of Monogram's TBD-1 in 1/48 scale, had the kit for awhile and thought it was time to make it. After thinking over the options, I decided to go with a VT-6 TBD-1 off of the USS Enterprise from the battle...they had been in combat prior to Midway and I really wanted to show a plane that had been through the thick of it.

 

Started off by painting the inside Model Master Medium Green (which is actually more accurate than Interior Green) and then detailing it. After gluing the halves together, I was able to properly glue the wings in place (which proved a tad difficult since they were built to be folded)...and then prep it to paint. After finishing the various parts such as landing gear, torpedo, various additions to the cabin, engine, and tailhook assembly) I was able to paint the aircraft. Painted the aircraft Model Master Intermediate Blue and left the bottom half alone with just primer (looks very accurate to the color needed). I then applied a flat coat (mistake on my part but no consequences) and applied decals, added a coat of gloss and prepped it for weathering). I started off with a dark wash and carefully removed it and reapplied in areas with more wear and tear. After that I then went over with a drybrush of silver to show depth and heavier paint wear. I then painted the cockpit free-hand, I know there is some overpaint here and there but it looks okay to me, and finished construction with the weaponry and gear.

 

Hope you enjoy...this was my first shot at weathering and detailing, as well as my 1st kit in a couple of years (took a brief hiatus).

 

Philip

post-25965-0-32878300-1404767242.jpg

post-25965-0-46406600-1404767243.jpg

post-25965-0-43874100-1404767244.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Built that when it first came out with the pre war Yellow Wing paint. Love those old planes. Great model, well done, I can hear the engine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very Nice! - I have the same kit I've been working on for 10 years now - I planned to do it in the prewar scheme - but this looks pretty good!

 

Bill

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love the way you have given it a used, weather beaten look to it

 

Real clever use of paints mate

 

Well done!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Proud Kraut

Philip, so this is your 1st kit after years and your first shot at weathering? WOW you did a great job! Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!

May I ask one question regarding the decals. Did you apply them with water only or did you use a specific medium?

 

Lars

Link to comment
Share on other sites

History Man

Philip, so this is your 1st kit after years and your first shot at weathering? WOW you did a great job! Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!

May I ask one question regarding the decals. Did you apply them with water only or did you use a specific medium?

 

Lars

 

It actually is, I believe my last kit was a PBY that I worked on for a good two months only to have it literally fall apart....that was back in 2011. Recently got back into it when digging the garage and finding some models that I had stashed away. I went to the local modeling shop and talked with the manager with regards to washes, he was able to get me the correct one I needed and give me a brief overview of application.

 

When it comes to decals...I only applied them using water, just patting them down with a paper towel after application. I made a mistake with applying a flat coat first, which is a no no from what I have been told, but thankfully did not encounter trouble. After decal application, I added a coat of gloss and then weathered the plane with washes and then silver drybrush followed by a coat of flat. Just a note...I noticed that during the wash removal (I used q-tips that were wet), I was able to get the decals to conform to the ridges and then apply wear over the decal to make it look like it was painted.

 

Thank you and thank you to all the members who have commented, I appreciate the feedback.

 

Philip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Proud Kraut

Philp, sorry for the late reply! It may be the photos, but there seems to be that well known " silver rings" still visible around the decals. This is what Wayne (mpguy80/08) taught me, when I had posted my first kit some years ago:

 

"There are a few ways this can be avoided... First is to apply a gloss coat over the vehicle, wait till it dries, then apply the decals, then after the decalsare dry, apply a flat coat. The other way is to ensure that you trip the decal as close to the edge as you can. If you can find it, obtain the Microscale system of decal solutions; Micro Set and Micro Sol. These solutions help the decal snug down to the surface and to conform to the surface. First dip the decal in warm water for about 10 to 15 seconds and set aside on a paper towel while you brush Micro Set onto the surface where you want to apply the decal. When the decal slides easily on the backing sheet, slide the decal onto the model where you applied the Micro Set and adjust it to where you want it. Then, take a paint brush and gently brush Micro SOL onto the decal. DO NOT touch the decal. Let the decal dry. During the process the decal will look wrinkly. This is a part of the system and is not anything to worry about. Once the decal is dry, if there are any bubbles under the decal, or it did not snug down completely, you can puncture the bubble or slice the decal with a sharp #11 blade, and apply more Micro SOL to the decal to get it to snug down. Sounds harder than it is."

 

I can only asure that this will work excellent. Once again, a great kit. Hope we'll see many more soon!

 

Lars

Link to comment
Share on other sites

History Man

Just found those two in my modeling gear, will use it from now on. I have been told by a few modelers to use the "nice guy" method but I am worried about doing it as I do not want to screw it up (will have to try it on a beater first).

 

Philip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...