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U.S. Army Fatigue Clothing 1904 to 1919


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world war I nerd

This topic is a attempt to piece together how the brown canvas and the blue denim and the olive drab denim and then the blue and brown denim (again) fatigue clothing evolved between 1904 through to the end of World War I (WW I). It was inspired from what I learned from other forum members, most notably Pointedcuffs and Cavdoc83. The genesis of this post is a thread recently started by agate hunter. For anyone so inclined, it is worth taking a look at:

 

http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/201780-anyone-have-any-examples-of-wwi-era-army-working-fatigues-brown-denims-etc/

 

Not wanting to hijack agate hunters topic (even though I sort of already did), but after I digested the information gleaned by the aforementioned topic and a small amount of research; I cobbled together a new and hopefully more coherent thread about early Army fatigue clothing.

 

Obviously, there are still many questions to be answered and theories to prove or disprove, but at least this a start. Please feel free to agree or disagree or to add corrections, comments or new information and especially photographs of any early fatigue hats, coats and trousers that you may have in your collection or in your files.

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Photo No. 01: The 1904 Fatigue Uniform

 

Coat, Canvas, Fatigue, specification No. 612 and Trousers, Canvas Fatigue, specification No. 613, were both adopted by the Army on April 22, 1903. The canvas “fatigue” or work uniform was adopted by the Army to be worn over the enlisted men’s cotton or wool service dress to protect it from damage and from excessive soiling while on fatigue duty.

 

The uniform was comprised of straight legged trousers and a sack coat. Both garments were manufactured in a durable, brown canvas or “cotton duck” fabric to resist wear and to conceal soiling. Both garments were also cut loose enough so that they could be worn over the summer or winter service dress. Based on the accompanying photograph, the Fatigue Coat had plain cuffs, a fully buttoned front that was secured by six buttons, a falling collar and a pair of flapless, patch style chest pockets. At this time, there are no details available regarding the Fatigue Trousers.

There is nothing to indicate that a Fatigue Hat was adopted at this time. Presumably, the regulation Service Hat (Campaign Hat) was worn by enlisted men involved in the work parties.

 

In 1904, the Quartermaster Department (QTMD) noted that a specification change was made to both the Fatigue Coat (Specification No. 676, June 10, 1904) and the Fatigue Trousers (Specification No. 677, June 10, 1904). A specification change could be anything from a change in the weight or the color of the fabric used, to a different type of thread or button, to the addition or removal or repositioning of a pocket or it could be a complete redesign of the entire garment. The exact nature of the1904 specification change is not known.

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Photo No. 02: The Coast Artillery Corps 1908 Blue Denim Fatigue Uniform

 

Coat, Blue Denim, specification No. 995 and Trousers, Blue Denim, specification No. unknown were both adopted by the Army on August 24, 1908. The blue denim work uniform was adopted exclusively for use by the men of the Coast Artillery Corps (CAC). Its purpose was essentially the same as that of the 1904 Fatigue Uniform, which presumably was still being issued to all buck privates (first class privates and corporals were excused from fatigue duties) and being worn by all branches of the U.S. Army except the CAC.

 

This is pure speculation, but I believe that blue indigo denim fabric with a white back fatigues were developed for use by the CAC because of their close proximity to the sea. Besides protecting the coast of America and its possessions, the CAC was also responsible for defending the sea adjacent to the coastal fortifications. Because of this a large number of CAC troops spent time at sea on mine and telegraph laying duties. Otherwise, why wouldn’t the Army issue the regulation brown canvas fatigues already in stock to the men of the CAC?

 

This photo, taken sometime after 1909, shows CAC men in the process of laying mines. Note that all of the enlisted men are wearing the 1908 Blue Denim Fatigue uniform that was made for and issued exclusively to the CAC until the September of 1910. Meanwhile the CAC officers overseeing the proceedings outside the wheelhouse wear the usual olive drab garments associated with the Army.

 

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Photo No. 03: The 1908 Blue Denim Fatigue Coat (photo of the soldier with shotgun posted by Cavdoc83).

 

The Coat, Blue Denim was a pullover style coat with a front placket and falling collar that was secured by three buttons. The coat featured three: upper left breast, lower left and lower right waist, patch style exterior pockets. Each pocket had a square cornered flap that was secured by a single button. The type and style of buttons used is not known. Like the 1904 Fatigue Coat, this pattern was also cut loose so it could be worn over the wool or cotton service dress.

 

Three examples of the 1908 pattern Blue Denim Fatigue Coat are shown. In the left hand photo an olive drab (?) fatigue coat is worn by an infantryman or National Guardsman along the Mexican border circa 1916. The three pockets are plainly evident as is one of the three square pocket flaps. The middle photograph taken sometime around 1914 of a member of the CAC shows another 1908 pattern Fatigue Coat whose pocket configuration is likely the same as its neighbor. The pocket flap does not have rounded corners. They have merely been turned either up or down. The right hand photo of soldiers along the border, also taken around 1916 shows an alternate or later example of the Fatigue Coat with a point at the base of the placket and at the bottom of the left chest pocket. Early versions of the coat were manufactured with a straight seam on the bottom of all three pockets, as well as at the base of the placket.

 

Perhaps this soldier’s coat is a “transitional” model made of components that were leftover from an earlier pattern that were then sewn onto a coat whose body was made to a newer specification number. Military garments that show details from two separate specification numbers turn up with surprising regularity. Closer inspection of the hybrid garments usually reveals a contract tag that is dated on or near the year that the specification was changed. Hence, rather than wasting any leftover or obsolete pieces, such as pockets or sleeves, they would be incorporated onto the newer specification until they were used up. Therefore the first few hundred or first few thousand garments produced at a certain factory or depot end up being an anomaly or hybrid that does not exactly match either the older or the newer specifications.

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Photo No. 04: The 1908 Blue Denim Fatigue Trousers.

 

The Trousers, Fatigue, Blue Denim were straight legged and did not feature the slight taper to the lower legs to facilitate the canvas leggings. A slight taper to the lower trouser legs were common to all regulation service trousers made before 1907 and up to 1918. The Fatigue Trousers were made from an indigo blue denim fabric with a white back which matched the Fatigue Coat. Each pair had two external front, patch style pockets and two external rear, patch style pockets. The right front pocket had a watch pocket inside and there were no pocket flaps or buttons used to secure the pocket openings. The front fly on all U.S. Army trousers and breeches made after 1908 were closed by four or five buttons (five buttons were required on waist sizes larger than 36 inches) and a large hook and eye at the top until 1917. I see no reason why the front fly on the 1908 Blue Denim Fatigue Trousers would be any different. Belt loops were sewn onto the waistband to accommodate the regulation web waist belt. In addition, six suspender buttons, four on the front, two on either side of the front fly, and two on the rear, were sewn externally onto the waist band for any soldier who preferred to wear suspenders. An adjustable half belt with a two prong brass or white metal friction buckle was located just below the rear waistband to fine-tune the waist size.

 

The two photos on the left are examples of Fatigue Trousers made somewhere between 1910, the year that the Blue Denim Fatigue Uniform was authorized for all branches of the Army, and 1914 when the lightweight, thin soled 1914 Russet Leather Shoe was issued Army wide, which neither of these soldiers is wearing. The square cut front patch pockets and belt loops are all plainly visible. If you look closely between the center soldier’s left hand belt loop and his left arm, you can just make out two suspender buttons between the top of waist belt and the top of the trousers. The right hand photo was probably taken in late 1918 or early 1919. The shape of the rear patch pocket is partially visible and the overall cut of the trousers appears to be the same as that of the 1908 pattern. Note that all three of the men have turned up or “cuffed” the bottom hem of the trouser legs and it’s impossible to determine whether or not the colors of the trousers are blue or olive drab.

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Photo No. 05: On the left, men of the CAC load one of that branches’ large caliber guns. Note the adjustment belt on the rear of their 1908 Service Breeches. The two detail shots, one of a pair of USMC trousers and the other of pre 1917 Service Breeches, show examples of the hook and eye that closed the top of the front fly on all U.S. Army trousers and breeches (and apparently USMC trousers) between 1908 and 1917, and the adjustment belt that was located at the back of the waist in between the pocket tops and the bottom edge of the belt loops. Note the placement of the two rear suspender buttons on the inside of the waistband of the USMC trousers. According to the only description available of the fatigue trousers, the suspender buttons were located on the outside, not the inside of the waistband.

 

In September of 1910, new specification numbers were assigned by the QTMD to the CAC Blue Denim Fatigue Uniform. The Coat, Fatigue, Blue Denim was now specification No. 1065, adopted on September 30, 1910, and the Trousers, Fatigue, Blue Denim, who’s specification number is unknown was also adopted on that date. Apparently, the only reason for the change in specification numbers was because the Army had prescribed the Blue Denim Fatigue Uniform for all arms. The specification change could also mean that olive drab fatigue coats and trousers began to be manufactured for all of other arms of the Army except the CAC. Fatigue coats and trousers were definitely fabricated from olive drab fabric for the Army during this period. Even though I cannot document this fact, I’m reasonably certain that that olive drab fatigue coats and trousers were a result of the1910 specification change.

 

By 1913, I noticed that the nomenclature used by the QTMD in their annual reports had changed several times since 1904. From 1904 up to 1908, the garments had been called, “Coats Fatigue, Canvas” and “Trousers, Fatigue, Canvas”. These names were obviously based on the fact that the garments were made from canvas.

 

From 1908 to around 1913, the uniform was officially known as, “Coats, Fatigue, Blue Denim” and “Trousers, Fatigue, Blue Denim”. This of course, was because they were manufactured from blue denim material for the sole use of the CAC until 1910.

 

Then by 1913 they were being called “Coats, Working” and “Trousers, Working”. I suspect that this name change was brought about because fatigue coats and trousers of the same pattern were being made from both blue denim and an olive drab fabric possibly as early as 1910 or 1911. Since both colors could not be called Coats/Trousers, Fatigue Blue Denim, the name was replaced with the more generic title of Coats/Trousers Working.

 

Then by 1915 they were being called by a different generic name: “Coats, Denim” and “Trousers, Denim”. This was likely because prior to 1915 the olive drab fabric used to make fatigue clothing for arms other that the CAC was not a denim fabric. At some point it was likely changed to an olive drab denim fabric, and the name was altered to match.

 

Then by 1917 the garments were being called, “Coats, Denim” and “Trousers, Blue Denim”. This was likely the result of the fact that the coats were still being manufactured in two colors (blue and brown), and that the trousers were being made only from blue denim.

 

Because the QTMD was very precise in regard to the language it used to describe the clothing and equipment that it issued; I’m convinced that these name changes, in some way reflect official changes that were made to both the type of material that the garments were made from, as well as the color or colors in which they were produced.

 

According to the above, between 1904 and 1919, Army issued fatigue coats and trousers were manufactured in the following colors:

  • Brown Canvas: 1904 to 1908 (Fact)
  • Brown canvas and Blue Denim: 1908 to 1910 (Fact)
  • Blue Denim and Olive Drab fabric: 1910/11 to 1917 (Speculation)
  • Blue Denim and Brown Denim: 1917 to 1918 (Fact)
  • Blue Denim: 1918 to 1919 (Fact)

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Photo No. 06: The 1909 Blue Denim Fatigue Hat.

 

The earliest mention of any type of fatigue or work hat is just a specification number without any other details. Based only on that I cannot unequivocally say that the Hat, Blue Denim, specification No. 1009, adopted on January 21, 1909 was the first U.S Army issued fatigue hat. Because, it was designed and issued to be worn in conjunction with the 1908 Blue Denim Fatigue uniform it was obviously intended to be used exclusively only by enlisted men of the CAC.

Here, two soldiers of the CAC, circa 1914 are both outfitted in the Blue Denim Fatigue Uniform. They are also wearing the recently adopted Blue Denim Hat. The example next to it was posted by BEAST on the thread that provided most of the information that allowed me to write this post. This later example made from brown denim or canvas is likely identical in construction to its earlier blue denim counterpart.

 

There was a specification change made to the Blue Denim Hat in 1910, of which I know nothing about. However, other evidence suggests that perhaps the hat bearing the specification No. 1102, adopted on December 23, 1910 was identical to the 1909 pattern hat except the specification change allowed it to be manufactured in olive drab instead of blue denim fabric so it could be worn by branches of the Army other than the CAC.

 

The Fatigue Hats were initially known as: “Hats, Blue Denim” from 1909 to around 1913. Then by 1915 the name had changed to, “Hats, Denim”, which was used up to and possibly after 1917. Again, I’m pretty sure that the name was changed sometime between 1911 and 1913 to indicate that the hats were no longer being made from just blue denim. I think that the word “blue” was dropped to signify that the hats were now being made in more than one color, i.e. blue (1909 to 1919), olive drab (1910 to 1917), brown (1917 to 1918).

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Photo No. 07: This Hat, Denim, was likely produced during WW I, when the stringent quality regulations concerning military clothing were relaxed considerably. Compare the number of rows of stitching used to reinforce this hat’s brim to those on the hat shown in photo number six, and you’ll see what I mean. Nevertheless, aside from far fewer rows of stitching on the brim, this hat is indicative of most fatigue hats, i.e. a four piece crown, white cotton lining, faux leather sweatband and a reinforced brim with a folded and sewn edge.

 

 

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Photo No. 08: The dark color of the fatigue Uniforms worn by these CAC men laying mines at sea clearly indicate that they are all made from indigo blue denim.

 

Another undocumented theory of mine is that the denim Fatigue Hats were only authorized for troops of the CAC until America entered WW I. This is based on the fact that I cannot recall seeing any pre 1917 period photographs of men other than the CAC wearing this form of headgear. Also, both the 1912 and 1917 Uniform Regulations clearly state that the brown or blue denim Fatigue Hats were to be worn only by members of the CAC and that all other arms were to wear the regulation Service or Campaign Hat with this uniform. In addition, the annual QTMD clothing inventory lists, between 1910 and 1916 show a disproportionate ratio of approximately one denim hat for every six coats and six trousers on hand at the end of each fiscal year. My conclusion being that the Denim Hats were issued to and needed by far fewer troops.

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Photo No. 09: Bib-Style Fatigue Trousers: olive drab circa 1916, left and blue denim 1918, right (photos posted by Cavdoc83).

 

Between 1901 and 1912 the QTMD inventory lists contained thousands of pairs of “Overalls”, with no accompanying description, in addition to the early brown canvas and later blue denim fatigue coats and trousers. Beginning in 1913, and each year thereafter, Overalls were inexplicitly omitted from the clothing inventory; yet a similar garment continued to show up with astonishing frequency in period photographs from 1916 up to and including WW I.

 

This led me to another educated/uneducated guess. I speculate that there was a specification change made to the denim fatigue trousers, which added an overalls type bib and suspenders to them. This would account for the men wearing bib overalls that may have in fact been an updated version of the Fatigue Trousers. If this was the case, then the redesign was probably a part of the 1911 U.S. Army uniform overhaul.

 

Note that the left hand photo taken along the Mexican border sometime in 1916 shows both the Fatigue Trousers and a Bib-Overalls style trouser. The cut and color of both garments are remarkably similar and to my eyes they are a shade of olive drab, not blue denim. Next to it is a WW I soldier wearing a pair of 1917 Blue Denim Fatigue Trousers which by that time did incorporate a bib-style front.

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Photo No.10: The 1917 Fatigue Coat and Trousers.

 

In 1917 the Army introduced a new fatigue uniform, one that was both cheaper and easier to produce because of America’s recent entry into WWI. The Coat, Denim, specification No. 1273, and Trousers, Denim, specification No. unknown, were both adopted by the Army on October 20, 1917. Both garments were significantly different from their predecessor. The new Fatigue Coat was no longer a pullover. It did feature the same falling collar, but the coat differed because it was made with a fully buttoned front that was secured by four buttons. Both sleeves had split cuffs that were held closed by a single button. The coat also had three external pockets in the same location as those on the 1908 pattern. However, the bottom of each pocket was no longer straight. Each terminated in a single point. Also, the pocket flaps were omitted as a wartime economy measure. Based upon photographic evidence it appears as if the coats were made from blue denim, brown denim and olive drab denim.

All three of the images show the 1917 Fatigue Coat’s fully buttoned front and its flapless external patch pockets. The split cuff is discernable only in the center photo. The shades of the garments vary. But I would guess that the uniform in the first photo is comprised or either faded blue or brown denim. The second is a mix of brown or olive drab denim on the coat and blue denim on the trousers. While the third is surely olive drab, as the blue denim uniform was not authorized for AEF personnel at the front. Presumably the buttons on all colors of the coat were of the same style used on earlier models.

 

The Trousers, Denim were now of the “bib-style”, which essentially made them look like farmer’s overalls. Photographic evidence suggests that except for the added bib and suspenders, they were identical to earlier examples. On the Army’s recently renovated 1917 Service Dress, the adjustment belt on the rear waist and the suspender buttons on the waistband were omitted from the breeches to conserve materials and reduce their cost. These items were also likely absent on the 1917 and later 1918 Denim Trousers. Also the large hook and eye that fastened the front of the front fly was replaced by a large sized button on the newly adopted 1917 Service Breeches. Again, this change was probably also mirrored on the 1917 and 1918 patterns of fatigue trousers.

 

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Photo No. 11: The 1918 Fatigue Coat and Trousers (color photo posted by US Victory Museum).

 

In 1918, the QTMD which was now called the Quartermaster Corps (QTMC) again revised the fatigue clothing for enlisted men. This was in all likelihood done to further save money and material at a time when Uncle Sam was scraping the bottom of the barrel in respect to the raw materials needed for the war effort. The Coat, Denim, specification No. 1347, was adopted by the Army on July 14, 1918. The Fatigue Coat was once again made in a pullover style with a three button, placket front that featured a pointed bottom. It had the usual falling collar and split cuffs closed by a single button. The coat was no longer made with three external pockets. Instead, it had two large rectangular shaped internal, chest pockets. The opening of the two pockets had neither a flap nor a button to secure them. Plus, they had the unusual distinction of being “side opening” pockets. What this means is that the opening for each pocket was located on the inside, or the side that faced inwards towards the placket and buttons.

 

The 1918 pattern Fatigue, Trousers, specification number unknown, adopted by the army on July 14, 1918 were now made without suspender buttons. The Trousers, Denim, were similar to the 1917 bib-style pattern, which made them resemble a pair of farmer’s overalls. It is not known whether the 1918 Fatigue Coat and trousers were made only in brown denim or if they were produced in both brown and blue denim.

 

The color photo illustrates both the brown color, as well as the described features. The black and white photo is of a 90th Infantry Division baker in the Army of occupation inside Germany in 1919. Judging by the absence of the lower waist pocket this Doughboy (in both the literal and figurative sense) is wearing the brown 1918 fatigue Coat.

 

The 1919 Fatigue Coat and Trousers

After hostilities ceased on November 11, 1918, the U.S. Army was downsized considerably. Following the end of the war there was a flurry of specification changes made by the QTMC to the clothing that it issued to accommodate the peacetime Army. One of which was made to the Fatigue Uniform. On May 1, 1919, specification No. 415-3-1347 decreed that the old pattern 1918 Coat, Denim would henceforth be made only from blue denim. No other changes were noted, so aside from being made from just one color the garment remained identical to the former 1918 Fatigue Coat. The Trousers, Denim, specification number unknown was also subject to the May 1, 1919 specification change. Aside from its color, it too remained identical to the former 1918 Fatigue Trousers.

 

Another specification change was made to the Fatigue Coat, when the Coat, Denim, specification No. 415-3-18 was adopted by the Army on August 1, 1919. The exact changes made are unknown. It is also unknown if the Fatigue Trousers also underwent a similar specification change.

 

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Photo No. 12:These photographs of Army recruits training in the U.S. show blue denim “bib-style” 1917 Fatigue trousers and brown “bib-style” 1918 Fatigue Trousers being worn over the 1916 Olive Drab Flannel Shirt, without the 1917 Fatigue Coat. Note the shape of the rear, patch style pockets and the rear attachment points of the bib’s suspenders on the left.

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Photo No. 13: This photo shows early arrivals to the AEF wearing either the 1908 pattern of Fatigue Trousers without the bib. Most likely, the color is olive drab, but not being anywhere near the front the men could be wearing blue denim or a mixture of the two colors.

 

End of post.

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WWI Nerd, that is an excellent summary! There are a couple of things that I am still unclear on, and that will need more research: I believe that the 1910 spec fatigue uniforms were made in both blue and in brown or drab duck or denim. The photos that we are seeing from the 1916 Border period appear to show more drab fabric than blue. I realize that it is difficult to distinguish colors, sometimes, in these B&W pics, but I feel that the fatigues seem to match the colors of the flannel shirts and service breeches in the photos. On fabrics, I wonder if there was a bit of variation allowed. Some of the pics that we see of artifacts look like dyed canvas vs. denim. (By definition, denim is a twill woven fabric where only the warp threads are dyed, making the back side of the cloth white or much lighter.) The specs seem to call for denim. I have a fatigue hat (which I will try to photograph later) which is definitely made of brown denim material.

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I'd also like to know something of the construction of the jackets, especially the earlier ones. Were they patterned "on the square" like a 19th century shirt, or were the sleeves and shoulders tailored, like the flannel shirts.

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Hi cavdoc83,

 

I agree. I too think that the olive drab fatigue clothing was issued to personnel other than the CAC between 1910 0r 1911 and 1917. I also agree that it is difficult to discern between olive drab an blue denim in the period photographs. I'm just going with what my gut tells me.

 

However, I'm certain that an olive drab version of U.S. Army fatigue clothing existed. Regardless, there is still much research that needs to be done. But I have learned more in the last few days than I have in the last few years, thanks to the information that you posted, and the spec. numbers that Pointedcuffs gave me a couple of years ago. If it wasn't for the forum, I wouldn't know any of this.

 

Likewise denim versus cotton duck or some other type of fabric, whether it's olive drab, blue or brown is equally difficult to distinguish in period black and white photographs..

 

I have seen examples of the fatigue coat that are definitely olive drab. So they did exist, When they existed is when we enter into the realm of speculation.

 

As far as being " cut on the square" or "tailored like the flannel shirt", I'm not exactly sure what you mean. Please elaborate.

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Early shirts, probably from the beginning of time up until the late 19th century were made from square/rectangular pieces. In other words, the body of the shirt was one big rectangle with a slit in it for the neck hole. The sleeves were two more rectangles, as were the collar, chest placket, gussets, etc. This is what is meant by "cut on the square". Towards the middle to end of the 19th century, shirts began to have the curved sleeve openings and more fitted bodies with which we are familiar today. I think that they initially called that "French" cut or tailored.

 

To look at the photos, the fatigue shirts, at least the pullover type, look baggy enough that I wonder if they were pieced together in the more old fashioned style. I wish that there were a ton of artifacts to examine. (This is really fairly irrelevant from a collecting standpoint. Honestly, I'm curious because I'd like to make myself a set of these.)

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Gil Sanow emailed me the following photos of U.S. Army fatigue clothing in his collection.

 

PS, Gil mentioned that he was contemplating selling all of these garments. Anyone interested in obtaining some hard to find Army fatigue clothing may want to send him a PM.

 

The first is an excellent example of the 1904 Coat, Canvas. Fatigue, which I have placed next to a period photo for comparison. It is identical to the one worn by the soldier, except for the fact that it has five buttons instead of six. This is probably the result of a QTMD specification change. The coat also has a white tag sewn on the inside near the bottom. Unfortunately, all the information on the tag has been worn or washed away.

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The second photo is the 1919 Blue Denim Fatigue Coat. According to the description, this example is for the most part, identical to the 1918 Brown Denim Fatigue Coat, except that it's made from blue denim and it features "U.S. Army" white metal buttons.

 

I am not that familiar with Army fatigue clothing from the 1930s and 1940s, but my understanding is that this style of fatigue coat continued to be used for a number of years after WW I. Therefore it's possible for this particular coat to have been made much later than 1919.

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This photo shows both the 1918 Brown Denim and the 1919 Blue Denim fatigue Coats. Note the different style of buttons and that the cut of the two garments is similar, yet different. (By the way, the 1918 Brown Denim Coat does not belong to Gil, it was posted by BEAST)

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Here's another example of a WWI Brown Denim Fatigue Hat. This type of hat was often worn by labor troops, stevedores and engineer units serving with the AEF in France.

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Blue Denim Fatigue Hats were also worn during WW I. They would have been similar, if not identical to the brown denim Fatigue Hats.

 

In 1919, the Army abolished the brown denim fatigue uniform. After existing stocks of hats, coats and trousers were exhausted, enlisted men would have only been issued blue denim fatigue clothing. Again this style of hat soldiered on well into the 1940s, so this particular example may in fact have been manufactured sometime after 1919.

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