HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share #51 Posted July 22, 2013 last one for now, under battery box. There was also one of the other pics under driver side floor, where that guy cut a large hole out with a cutting disc... made a mess there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m151mp Posted July 22, 2013 Share #52 Posted July 22, 2013 looking back at the pics, i see now that you have a mechanical fuel pump. one thing doesn't match up right off the bat ,though---you show in one pic of the underside an oval floor drain, which is not consistent with the production date of 4/67. i sent a note off to ken the mutt guru on your behalf, and i'm also going to ask jason to have a look at it, since he is quite knowledgable about these and owns an early M151. he's in a better position than i am to try and figure out if that data plate is correct for this vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austringer Posted July 22, 2013 Share #53 Posted July 22, 2013 It's an early "straight" M151 with a few M151A2 parts. it's been converted to an alternator (hence no voltage regulator) and has an A2 windshield. The dataplate is not correct, as the early body was made up to 1964. Also, another indicator is the lacke of a marker light in the passanger side rear. If you're looking for early parts and want to convert her back, I can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USARV72 Posted July 23, 2013 Share #54 Posted July 23, 2013 Steam cleaner and a seal kit may be a first consideration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share #55 Posted July 23, 2013 It's an early "straight" M151 with a few M151A2 parts. it's been converted to an alternator (hence no voltage regulator) and has an A2 windshield. The dataplate is not correct, as the early body was made up to 1964. Also, another indicator is the lacke of a marker light in the passanger side rear. If you're looking for early parts and want to convert her back, I can help. I aint found no alternator like the ones I would know on later vehicles, It does have a rather large thing mounted on drivers side of engine, that says Generator, and on my voltmeter, is puts out 27+ volts. However.... There are are Two Small 12 volt batteries that are wired as follows, in the battery box: BAT #1 (-) large jumper wire to BAT #2 (+) then a large wire off BAT #1 (+) to engine compartment and large wire off BAT #2 (-) to complete circuit. I know I got "some wiring problems" but I don't understand how the batteries are wired, say like they were in my boat years ago, but the output from that large generator thing is 27+ volts?? To make matters worse, I used my multi meter today on the tail light wires, but the only voltage I can find even with engine running is 5 volts on one wire from drivers side, and one from passenger side on the rear lights. I had stuck a stick on the brake pedal for a few minutes to look for a hot wire back there, but I couldn't get any of the bulbs to light up, I even took a single pole single filament 12 volt bulb out of my spare truck stuff, it wouldn't light it either. "The good news is" one dash light bulb works and the headlights both work....LOL. I don't know what to think yet, especially the way the batteries are wired, compared to output voltage on that big thing under the hood. "If that's an alternator" it's the biggest one I ever seen.... but it says generator on it, did somebody change or swap something to make it an alternator? I only ask because this is all new to me, I never had anything like this... There is now a some type of marker light on passenger rear, but it looks more like a blackout light to me, not sure? I will get some pics tomarrow if I can of the rear of the vehicle, since I put the lights and corner guards back on. I just didn't have time today to take pics... sorry about that, I was just buisey with these electrical things. "Oh, couldn't get the turn signals to work yet iether, not really sure why... "(IS there a fuse box in these things somewhere?)" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share #56 Posted July 23, 2013 Steam cleaner and a seal kit may be a first consideration. LOL, yeah I thought that too... but I got a long way to go and a big list to put together, but I'll just take it day by day I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share #57 Posted July 23, 2013 I drove it up my niehborhood road today, just for the heck of it, had kind of a hard time finding third gear, I think I kept bumping 1st or reverse, I couldn't tell. I remember when my little off-road 4X4 jeep did that years ago, it needed a shifter bushing to get the slop out of it, worked fine after that, but I don't know if thats the same thing that was going on today, or I just never drove one and couldn't find it. While sitting in the driveway, engine off, it seemed even then to have to be in just the right place to go in 3rd gear. Anybody else notice that before, or do I need more practice, or should I add something to do "on my list" of things to do down the road? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m151mp Posted July 23, 2013 Share #58 Posted July 23, 2013 that is a 60 amp alternator, and it is supposed to put out that amount of voltage. always remember this is a 24 volt system, but the actual bulbs are 28 volt. ken the mutt guru says what you have is an early, straight M151, made by willys. that means the data plate is not correct for your vehicle. jason can be of great help to you on this, as he also has an early 151. there are some differences between yours and the later A1 and A2 versions. third gear may be wandering a little on you, this thing is over 50 years old, but practice will help. check your gear box fluid levels, and use GL4 to top them off. DO NOT use GL5. the trans and both differentials use the same product. get a grease gun and go after all the zerk fittings, especially on the wheel prop shaft ujoints, both ends. print off the lube order from the G838, it will be very useful. i just had a thought---did anyone go over how to use the military light switch? if not, see if the words on the switch are still legible. if they're not, you can read up on it in the wiki. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share #59 Posted July 23, 2013 that is a 60 amp alternator, and it is supposed to put out that amount of voltage. always remember this is a 24 volt system, but the actual bulbs are 28 volt. ken the mutt guru says what you have is an early, straight M151, made by willys. that means the data plate is not correct for your vehicle. jason can be of great help to you on this, as he also has an early 151. there are some differences between yours and the later A1 and A2 versions. third gear may be wandering a little on you, this thing is over 50 years old, but practice will help. check your gear box fluid levels, and use GL4 to top them off. DO NOT use GL5. the trans and both differentials use the same product. get a grease gun and go after all the zerk fittings, especially on the wheel prop shaft ujoints, both ends. print off the lube order from the G838, it will be very useful. i just had a thought---did anyone go over how to use the military light switch? if not, see if the words on the switch are still legible. if they're not, you can read up on it in the wiki. Thanks, the tons of info on here are great, and I am beginning to understand, I still got a bunch of learning to do... If it is a 24 volt system, I just don't understand the way they have the two batteries wired in there. It's not wired Battery (+) to Battery (+), then out to the system, ( I know I must sound dumb here, bare with me...) I just thought that to have 24 volts, the two batteries needed to be wired different. These seem to be wired like 12 volt boat batteries (+) to (-) to give it more amps??? but then I aint really sure, it just seems like something is different here?? OH, and does this thing have an isolated ground?? maybe that's why I got all that static in my wires, when chexking for voltage here and there?? Nothing is really reading (zero) or (OL) on my meter, I got a tiney bit of leakage in just about everything I check. This may be why I am having tail light propblems, but I am not sure yet. Some of the sockets are rusty, and a couple of the bulbs are really stuck in there good, (another problem) but this is a huge learning experience for me...LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austringer Posted July 23, 2013 Share #60 Posted July 23, 2013 I'd be glad to help out.. Depending on year, I could be Ford, Willys or Kaiser? Ford was 59-63, Willys was 63-64, Kaiser was 64 then the A1s started coming out and produced through 64-69/70. The batteries are wired in series to get 24v, if they were wired parallel (+ to + then out to system) you would get double amp at 12 volt. As they are in series, 2 12 batteries will give you 24v. I can't tell what year it is b/c I don't have enough pictures or any giveaways. Looks like, but can't be 100% sure, you have A1 suspension arms (which was common) in the back, they should have 2 rubber bumpers vs 1 on the early ones. The "generator" is a 24 volt alternator, I have the same one on my 1974 M151A2. It's a heavy beast. Originally they had 25 amp generators with a mechnical voltage regulator. (breadbox) I'm going to say that this one is late 62-64 as it only has one cowl vent. My 6-62 had two, while my current 5-62 (both Fords) has only one. You got a good deal on it esp since it runs. Personally, I'd leave the alternator, and go with it as it is. If you were to go back to 25 amp gen, you would end up spending around 600-1200 just on the wiring harness along to go back. Looks like you either have a modified (militlary did this) harness to accept the 60amp alternator. If you want to replace the harness or need to, just use an A2 harness, you can get them for 200-300 complete. Then just do a few modifcations and ti should work for you. You will loose the abilty to use the electric fuel pump in the tank, but unless you like the click click click sound of it (like I do), then you should stay with the mech fuel pump that is on the engine now. BTW: NOS elecric fuel pumps are not that cheap... 150-300 depending on where you shop and how hard you look. Overall, you'll have a nice M151 to play with and they are very easy to work on. If you want to take her back to original or close to it, take a look at a new (to me) 62 M151 I picked up recently. I'll post it on this forum under a different topic, I don't want to hijack this one as I feel there will be plenty more discussion as you move forward. Also, check out g838.org, it's the best site for strictly M151s. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austringer Posted July 23, 2013 Share #61 Posted July 23, 2013 Also, the M151s are the best driving 1/4 ton 4x4s the military ever had, that's why there were in service longer than any other 1/4 by a long shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share #62 Posted July 23, 2013 Thank's, and I did get voltage to my turn signal cicuit just before it started raining again this morning. I was out there with my test meter tracing down where the harness went after it went under the dash & found a small box with fins on it hanging down. It had a missing mount on one end, So I looked up above it under the dash & saw the missing mount and another wire (ground) hanging from up there. So I examined the plug on the little box and saw an empty socket, concluding that wire must have come out of there. Once I plugged it in, switched my light lever to park & master switch to on, I saw the little bulb in the blinker switch start to blink. I then proceeded to check all of my turn signal wires for voltage, & they check out just sitting there not running engine at 19 volts or so. Some of the bulb sockets are rusty, & I don't have the tail light wires plugged in yet, but I do have a complete cicuit now, and power to those locations. Now if I could just get the power to the brake light and park light I will feel a lot better. I bet there is a similar problem there too, bad ground somewhere. I took some pics of the back end of the jeep this morning, but they turned out too dark to post em I think, I will look at them again and see if anything looks good enough to identify things with on those pics... Thanks again... Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share #63 Posted July 23, 2013 Here is the only pic that sort of even came close to turning out, it was not full daylight yet, and the flash was really coming on strong, but the other pics are dark. Anyway, hope this pick will help identify the back end better, until after the rain anyway...LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share #64 Posted July 23, 2013 My fuel guage or, well the two wires on the tank, still aren't hooked up yet... I was wondering should the sender wire have voltage on it, or not? there are two wires laying in the floor beside the tank, I guess that one is for the pump, which is not being used and one of those wires is hot with master switch on, the other is not hot. I knew the guage wasnt working when I got it, not sure why yet, but if it will quit raining I would like to check that out more thouroughly today if I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m151mp Posted July 23, 2013 Share #65 Posted July 23, 2013 My fuel guage or, well the two wires on the tank, still aren't hooked up yet... I was wondering should the sender wire have voltage on it, or not? there are two wires laying in the floor beside the tank, I guess that one is for the pump, which is not being used and one of those wires is hot with master switch on, the other is not hot. I knew the guage wasnt working when I got it, not sure why yet, but if it will quit raining I would like to check that out more thouroughly today if I can. the fuel pump wire is #77, the fuel sending unit wire is #28. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share #66 Posted July 23, 2013 I guess you are talking about those little metal things clipped around all the wires on this Mutt, some I can read a number on, and some are corroded slightly, I need to find my litte brass brush to gently clean those off that I can get to. Thanks for that info, it will come in handy... I may also need to buy more light sockets, or light fixtures, these things were never toook care of on mine, so there is rust in at least some of the bulb sockets. I used penetrating oil to try to start working them free, so I can try to clean them up and resurect the bad looking ones, but that may not work well, its just something I wanna try before I start replacing stuff. I know the circuit to the turn signals is good though, I just got to free a couple bulbs up to see if they will light up...LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share #67 Posted July 23, 2013 Incidently, my bill of sale that he wrote up, say's 1964 ford ?? I don't even know how to tell who made it, most of yall probly know, but I just thought I would throw that out there, He also put the engine data plate number on there too, it is 48533 I think, his writing is a little sloppy, but after it's done raining again, I will try to verify the engine plate number...maybe nobody changed that plate out, LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austringer Posted July 23, 2013 Share #68 Posted July 23, 2013 More than likely the engine was swapped out several times, but looks like you still have an early engine in there. The air filter is A1 or A2. The brackets on the rear quarter panels are USMC and were added. The blackout marker light you have there should be flush to the back of the bracket, it's sticking out way to far b/c there is no hole for it in the body. I doubt she's a 64 Ford, more than likely a 64 Willys or Kaiser. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austringer Posted July 23, 2013 Share #69 Posted July 23, 2013 here's my 62 Ford, she's a little dirty but all orignal paint and markings. https://picasaweb.google.com/105335140802959031943/1962M151Serial2D3181?authuser=0&feat=directlink Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share #70 Posted July 24, 2013 here's my 62 Ford, she's a little dirty but all orignal paint and markings. https://picasaweb.google.com/105335140802959031943/1962M151Serial2D3181?authuser=0&feat=directlink Wow, that looks great... thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share #71 Posted July 24, 2013 More than likely the engine was swapped out several times, but looks like you still have an early engine in there. The air filter is A1 or A2. The brackets on the rear quarter panels are USMC and were added. The blackout marker light you have there should be flush to the back of the bracket, it's sticking out way to far b/c there is no hole for it in the body. I doubt she's a 64 Ford, more than likely a 64 Willys or Kaiser. Jason OK, but I have a question.... "When I finally do get the rest of my lights to work" LOL, if I can, and decide to go try to get a tag of some kind, or find out if they will even issue me one kind or another, "should I just use the info on the data plate, since it at least has a serial number on it, or tell them something else?" I don't know what to do about that?? I would hate to tell them the data plate is wrong, then they may make things rather difficult for me to get a tag of some kind... I would like to at least drive it down to the beer store, or over to my buddies house once in a while, maybe... but I couldn't do iether one without a tag... no big deal I guess but I don't know what to do about that one... any suggestions??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share #72 Posted July 24, 2013 Are there any letters or numbers anywhere else I could look for, anything at all, to tell who made the body? If I could be sure which one it was, I may be able to find a data plate somebody don't need or something?? But I would like to be sure, before I put another plate on, then find out I got it wrong too, LOL.... Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austringer Posted July 24, 2013 Share #73 Posted July 24, 2013 Just use the one that's on it for your tag. I am getting the tags done this week for the "Combat Assault Vehicle M151A2-MOD" and had a officer over yesterday to confirm the numbers on the plate. Last one I registered, all I had to do was walk into the tag office with a bill of sale and proof of ins and out the door with a tag in 10 mins. Now we have to have all vins confirmed. Not sure how it is in your area. Again, just use the plate that's on it as the officer will not know or much less care that it's a M151, M151A1 or M151A2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share #74 Posted July 24, 2013 Just use the one that's on it for your tag. I am getting the tags done this week for the "Combat Assault Vehicle M151A2-MOD" and had a officer over yesterday to confirm the numbers on the plate. Last one I registered, all I had to do was walk into the tag office with a bill of sale and proof of ins and out the door with a tag in 10 mins. Now we have to have all vins confirmed. Not sure how it is in your area. Again, just use the plate that's on it as the officer will not know or much less care that it's a M151, M151A1 or M151A2. Well if the only vin to confirm on a mutt is the data plate on the dash, and the one on the engine, then I guess I got it made...LOL sort of, well, you know... LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HILLBILLY-06 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share #75 Posted July 24, 2013 I'm glad they won't care, I think someone here told me I have all three rolled into one, That's ok with me... instead of a thoroubread, i got one that was bred thoroughly...LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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