Removing Dents From Metal Canteens

[Recon 369]

A good way to remove canteen dents is with air presure. I have used this technique several time with Sigg Fuel Bottles up to and including aluminum fuel tanks on Semi's.

 

For Metal canteens

First you will need a few items

1. A spare canteen cap (the newer ones with the rubber seal work best as they are made of modern plastic NSN 8465-01-370-9226)

 

2. A bolt in Metal type tire valve with rubber seal

 

3. A small rubber mallet & a small plastic tipped hammer

 

4. Silcone gasket maker

 

5. Drill & assorted drill bits

 

6. Air Compressor (if you don't have one the ones at gas stations work)

 

When you have all parts & tools

take the tire valve and see that the back end (the end normally inside the wheelrim) fits freely into the neck of the canteen if it does not use a bench grinder or file to remove enough metal for it to fit.

 

Next take the extra cap and remove the gasket then carefully drill out the rivet holding the chain on (save Chain for future projects)

 

Now drill out the center hole using increasing larger drill bits until you have a hole large enough for the tire valve to fit in (narrow end normally outside the wheelrim)

then reinsert the rubber gasket in the cap and with a sharp knife cut a hole in the center matching the new larger hole in the cap

Now remove the cap gasket again and (if not already done) remove the rubber gasket from tire valve apply a film of silicone to the inside of the canteen cap and insert the gasket now aplly more silicone to the hole in the cap and the base of the tire valve and insert tire valve in the cap (stem end to outside)put the nut ont the valve and snug it down then put new mofified cap on the canteen & snug it down let sit for 24 hours for silicone to cure.

 

After 24 Hrs hand tighten the cap as tight as possible and fill with air about 15 - 20 PSI (for aluminum)after a little time some smaller dents with pop out on their own

for larger dents lightly tap around the edge of the dent with rubber or pastic hammer (at this point you may need to add a little more air presure I have gone a high as 40 PSI on a thin wall Sigg Fuel Bottle)

On some canteens The bottom may bulge out slightly (don't worry this can be tapped back with rubber hammer once air presure is released)

Release presure remove cap and store in tool box for future use

 

NOTE: not all dents will come out all the way but even seveer dents will be reduced

this new cap can also be used to check for leaks - apply presure and submerge in water (WW2 2 qt and early Vietnam 2 & 5 qt as well)

[Recon 369]

This a a pic of the type of tire valve I mentioned

 

[Recon 369]

This method is supperior to freezing water in that you control the presure (less likely to bulge out the entire canteen) and it allows you to manipulate the dent (tapping around the edges) and again you can check for & mark leaks

[robinb]

It sounds to me like you're making a canteen into a grenade. For goodness sake, eye and ear protection, long sleeves and gloves should be worn while attempting this procedure. I personanly would never try this for any reason. A canteen isn't worth it.

[Recon 369]

Not so you are only using 15 to 20 PSI When you pump up a fuel bottle on a stove you get higher presures. An inflated air mattress will be at about 15 PSI. I have used this technique many times including repairing Truck fuel tanks with much higher presures. I'll admit you may get a rupture (not likely but possible) and the air will whoose out but at only 20 psi it is not going to grenade. I did forget to say to use an air fitting with a built in pressure gauge.

[PvtTamura]

Ehhh, I'd try it, but the only dented canteen I have is so dented I question the PSI it would take....

[ZeketheAwesome]

It sounds to me like you're making a canteen into a grenade. For goodness sake, eye and ear protection, long sleeves and gloves should be worn while attempting this procedure. I personanly would never try this for any reason. A canteen isn't worth it.

 

Unless your pumping air into the canteen at like, 150 PSI, it's not going to explode anyway. And even if it did, it wouldn't explode (in the traditional sense of the word.) and hurt you

[Bob Hudson]

We remind all forum members that any such tips are tried at your own risk and that any advice such as "it's safe" is simply opinion and does not does guarantee you cannot get injured from pressurizing metal containers.

 

I'm reminded of the Tennessee man who was considered the expert on defusing Civil War cannonballs and did over 600 of them. Sometime after 600, one went "Boom!"

 

http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/15963-exploding-ordnance-a-new-case/

[RustyCanteen]

Don't have permission to view topic.

 

 

Try again.

[Bob Hudson]

 

 

Try again.

 

And please, please, please: never try to pressurize a rusty canteen!

[PvtTamura]

Thanks, got it now.

[RustyCanteen]

 

And please, please, please: never try to pressurize a rusty canteen!

 

 

Good advice.

[DSchlagan]

Recon369; et al.

 

I had noticed this post when originally submitted, and meant to reply much earlier...

 

As Precaution and Safety is Truly FOREFRONT on anything that I work on; I Do consider this technique an excellent thought; and safety-wise, quite-procedurally sound; when followed with regard to, as to what should be, the most common-of-sense.

 

Even with completely-[and unadvisedly]-"unregulated" air pressure, from most-any commercially manufactured air compressor, the MAX PSI available would be between 200 > 250 PSI.

Yes, a split/rupture could occur, as previously noted; but would only result in a simple 'seam-split'; ...unless one decides to "just-get-plain stupid"..

 

One would have to introduce, in micro-seconds*, pressure-volume-expedients more towards that, at very minimum, of 10X of what most commercial compressors are capable of.

*[Just as high-explosives are DESIGNED to do.]

 

And NO, I am NOT suggesting the 'unregulated-unloading of air-pressure' of something more towards a "road-compressor"*, either.

*[Which Potentially DOES HAVE "both" the availability of HIGH PSI, AND a Large COMPRESSED VOLUME; both of which would be necessary to, potentially (and reasonably likely), to cause actual explosive force.]

 

****

 

This whole subject kinda reminds me of some Western films, in which an offensive or defensive position is 'supposedly established' by tossing a bunch of live cartridges on a campfire. ...Thus, 'supposedly' causing the rounds to discharge, with any-some-sort-of degree of 'effectiveness'.

At most, the primers 'can' pop; though, as the round is not contained (chambered), it will only result in the harmless split of the casing, and W/O ANY projection of the bullet, itself.

 

[And, NO, it is NOT a responsible/safe 'adventure' to "try" the above, either; for the unlikely chance that a cartridge 'could' get wedged in such a manner/position as to cause a possible partial-chambering effect; unlikely as it may be.]

 

****

 

I actually make use of air pressure, somewhat similarly, in one of my shop buildings. There is a waste-oil heater installed, with a 250 gallon tank (primary), and two 500 gallon (reservoir) tanks.

At the time of installation, likely 15+ years ago, an electric oil-transfer pump cost nearly $500.00.

So with a little ingenuity, (and an initial suggestion by a trusted friend), I designed/constructed a system where I, first, fill my 500 gallon reservoir tanks, with a gravity-feed system.

When the (primary) 250 gallon tank requires a re-fill, I will place a locking air-chuck. on a valve-stem (nearly identical to the one that is pictured in Post #2, with the single-difference of pipe threads, instead of a gasketed stem).

I will regulate the air pressure down to 45 > 50 PSI, and through design of a series/parallel set-up of ball valves, direct the waste-oil from (whichever) reservoir tank desired, and into the 250 gal. primary tank.

It works very well. ...Just make certain to keep track of the "sight-glass" on the inside tank, as it is possible to create over-flow condition.

 

****

 

I most certainly appreciate your Cautionary and SAGE advice F/S:

MOST IMPORTANTLY:

And please, please, please: NEVER try to Pressurize [or Antagonize] a "RustyCanteen"!!

 

Regards,

Don.

[V42]

Great idea.!!

[skautdog]

Why not just leave the dents and have the canteen as it is. Possibly indicates, "been there, done that."

[market garden]

add water put in freezer,take out.

[UFOnaut]

Why not just leave the dents and have the canteen as it is. Possibly indicates, "been there, done that."

As new on this scene, you guys are confusing me. What is the logic in "cleaning up" a dented canteen except, maybe, for being able to fit a cup? That seems to defy much of what I have read in the last week being a new member.

[TRR]

As new on this scene, you guys are confusing me. What is the logic in "cleaning up" a dented canteen except, maybe, for being able to fit a cup? That seems to defy much of what I have read in the last week being a new member.

 

Everyone has a different perception in regards to preservation and history of the items they collect. It is still the same canteen, just less dents. This was actually done this way by the Army in order to reissue them after being beat up during WWII. So in a way, it is still historically accurate to inflate the dents out.

 

Here is a thread discussing equipment reclamation: http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/176622-how-the-army-fixed-damaged-mess-gear-etc/&do=findComment&comment=1350858

The video showing inflating canteens and gas cans: http://www.criticalpast.com/video/65675076670_reclamation-activities_battered-cans_man-working_damaged-gasoline-cans

[BOLO]

add water put in freezer,take out.

 

I think I'll try the freezer method, since I only have one dented canteen worth fixing and this wont require any special equipment

 

I just fixed a canteen that had a bulge on the bottom by simply pounding the bottom on a flat surface to flatten it, I have a piece of railroad track that I use as an anvil

 

the air pressure method is best if your repairing a large number in a short time like at the repair depot

[Jayhawkmickey]

Saw this post and thought of a recent episode of how it's made. They were restoring old brass musical instruments with some nasty dents. They put a large steel ball bearing inside and used a "very" strong magnet with a handle on the outside and rolled the ball bearing under the dent until it disappeared completely. They laid a sheet of thin plastic over the brass so as not to scratch the brass. Don't know how much the kit costs or where you get one but can't imagine that it wouldn't work for an aluminum canteen? Way safer than freezing, but cost??? Who knows?