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"Chipping"


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#1 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:35 AM

I hope I do not bother you too much with my modeling stories but I was really surprised by the results of a little trial I did this weekend.
Paint damages can be easily done by "Chipping". There are two ways, that I want to introduce today. I tested the procedures with the Verlinden 1/35 dozer kit, which I want to use with one of my Shemans at the M10 dio.

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#2 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:37 AM

First of all, building the Verlinden dozer model was a nerve-wraking projekt for me. I needed twice as much time for it as for the Sherman itself. But if it's done the model looks very realistic.
After assembling and washing the resin kit, I airbrushed the whole dozer with a light grey primer.

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#3 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:39 AM

I have no clue what undercoat the Army used for it's equipment but I decided to use a light green acrylic color to achieve a sharp contrast.

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#4 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:40 AM

When the acrylic color has dried, I painted the lower half of the dozer blade with Model Master steel color leaving the upper half light green and let everything dry again.

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#5 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:41 AM

For the next step I just needed water and salt.

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#6 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:41 AM

With a brush I "painted" small drops of warm water on these areas that should have paint damages. I salted the wet areas and let the salt dry.

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#7 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:42 AM

...

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#8 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:42 AM

...

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#9 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:43 AM

Meanwhile I sprayed hairspray in a cup for the next step(honestly, that was the first time I used hairspray in my life...oh well, don't forget to ask your wife if you are allowed to use...).

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#10 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:44 AM

I brushed the hairspry on the whole front of the dozer blade with an old paintbrush.

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#11 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:44 AM

After anything has dried, I airbrushed the whole kit with a dark green/acrylic paint mix.

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#12 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:45 AM

When the color has dried, I removed the salt first. You can see the light spots of undercoat. IMHO much more realistic, than paintig lighter spots on the darker green color.

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#13 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:46 AM

Okay, next time I try to make smaller spots for a more realistic result.

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#14 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:47 AM

Then I scratched away the dark green color on the dozer's front by using the peak of a wooden brush. The peak - you can also use a chip or toothpick - has to be wet. I dipped it in water and scratched off the color alternately. The hairspray prevents the undercoat being scratched away as well.

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#15 Sabrejet

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:48 AM

Another very clever technique Lars. Wunderbar!! :thumbsup:

#16 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:48 AM

If you don't like the result, you can easily paint the same area again with acrylics and repaet the procedure.

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#17 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:49 AM

That's it, thanks for looking!

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#18 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:50 AM

Es wird...

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#19 Proud Kraut

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:53 AM

Another very clever technique Lars. Wunderbar!! :thumbsup:


Thank you very much, Ian!

#20 nix284

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 01:13 PM

That dozer blade looks real. Another reason I put my modeling equipment away years ago and left it to the priofessionals. Well done.

#21 mpguy80/08

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 04:30 PM

Awesome effect... The last time I tried something like this was back in 1992 when I was stationed in Korea. I built a Ki-84 Frank Japanese fighter. The effect I was going for was a peeling dark green paint over bare metal. The way I produced the effect was a little similar to your way, but not as intensive. I painted the airframe with enamel silver and let it dry. Over that, I painted Polly S acrylic dark green. using photos of aircraft with the type of wear I was trying to achieve, I basically gently scraped the dark green from the base enamel to match the photos. It's a little different on aircraft... the wear patterns are a little different... but the effect is pretty much the same. Great job!!!

Wayne

#22 tsweeney

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 07:06 AM

Lars
Great step by step tutorial Thanks for sharing

Tom

#23 The Meatcan

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 08:47 AM

another great post, Lars! I'm looking forward to seeing that finished dio.
Terry

#24 svt40

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 07:34 PM

I have no clue what undercoat the Army used for it's equipment but I decided to use a light green acrylic color to achieve a sharp contrast.


Red oxide primer was the color of choice on US military vehicles. Very early vehicles also sometimes used black primer on the frames.

This is making me want to bust out my M4A3 with interior and start working on it.

#25 Proud Kraut

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 07:20 AM

Thanks everybody for the kind comments! Also thanks for the info regarding the Army vehicle's undercoat color; good to know!

Lars


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