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Creating Mud Effects with Pigments


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#26 uplandmod

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 10:15 AM

MIG products are so seductive.....great job!

#27 Jeeper704

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 12:41 PM

Thanks for the tips, Wayne.
It sure makes me wanna try modelmaking again. :)
Would love to have an M18 and M10 in 1/35th scale on display.

Erwin

#28 mpguy80/08

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 07:29 PM

Thanks for the tips, Wayne.
It sure makes me wanna try modelmaking again. :)
Would love to have an M18 and M10 in 1/35th scale on display.

Erwin


Best M10 right now is the AFV Club one. Lots of ejector marks to deal with, but not bad once you get her cleaned up. Of the two M18s on the market (AFV club and Academy) I have the Academy kit and am quite pleased with the fit and details. Both kits have short comings... but will build up into a good representation of the Hellcat. Best to look at any reviews you can find on them to make your choice. I have the AFV club M10, the Academy Hellcat, and the AFV Club M36 Jackson. Keep in mind that the hulls of the M10 and M36 are for the earlier versions only, not the later versions with the GAA engine. For my M36 I got a resin kit to replace the hull. The really good thing about the AFV club kits is they come with a nice turned aluminum barrel that you build into the gun... they made it with a spring recoil system, though I dont know why unless you would want to build the gun in a full recoil state as if it were firing. If you do start modeling again, let us see!!!

Wayne

#29 Proud Kraut

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 01:02 PM

Thanks everybody for your kind feedback! I have a lot of fun doing a bit modeling again but even more discussing it here with that great community, thanks again!


Dont forget to get some "Weight" on those tracks. The are very heavy and always appear to "FLOAT" on models. I use piano wire drilled into the lower hull. Let them stick out onto the tracks about half way. Set them between the boggies.
Looks great though.


100% agreed! Very good hint, will try that as well! Thank you!

#30 Proud Kraut

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 01:06 PM

In keeping with the theme of this thread, I would think that heavier mud could be built up with pigments however that might be a serious waste of pigment. There is a material called Celluclay that you can get at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby or Michaels... you mix it up with water and use it for heavier mud, then layer the pigments over the top of that, saving your pigments. I've heard of drywall spackle being used as well. Whatever you do, stay away from using modelling putties such as Squadron green or white putty and the testors putty, as these contain Toluene, a solvent that will attack and soften the plastic. These products are good for filling small gaps, but will destroy a model if used in larger quantities.

Wayne


Wayne, you are absolutely right! Doing a little research on it, I learned that there are many variants of creating heavy mud. Some people use real earth, sawdust or sand, I even found a mix with coffee (sic) online. Thanks for the head up regarding putty!

Lars

#31 mpguy80/08

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 01:58 PM

Wayne, you are absolutely right! Doing a little research on it, I learned that there are many variants of creating heavy mud. Some people use real earth, sawdust or sand, I even found a mix with coffee (sic) online. Thanks for the head up regarding putty!

Lars


I've even seen ground work done by mixing Elmers glue with real dirt... You are really only limited by your imagination!

Wayne

#32 Proud Kraut

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 07:23 AM

Thanks for the input. I already had some structure past that I brushed on the kit to achieve a more dirty look.

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#33 Proud Kraut

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 07:24 AM

This time I mixed the pigments with potting compost.

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#34 Proud Kraut

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 07:25 AM

Light color for the dry areas, dark pigments for the wet areas.

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#35 Proud Kraut

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 07:27 AM

Forward march!

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#36 Garandomatic

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 06:29 PM

Outstanding work. I hope you don't mind me trying out these tricks on the M5 I got on ebay the other day!



#37 Linedoggie

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 07:45 PM

I use Liquitex Ceramic stucco artist acrylic paste. can be pre tinted with acrylic paints and has a Sandy gritty texture. they have a range of texture gel pastes depending on what you want to do.



#38 strawberry 9

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 08:38 PM

Great tips. For pigments, I just buy multi colored chalk sets and use an exactoknife to scrap of as much as I need into powder form. Might be a pain if you needed a lot though.

#39 David D

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 03:19 AM

Wow, thats amazing. I might have to try it.

 

-Dave



#40 Proud Kraut

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 10:45 AM

Wow, thats amazing. I might have to try it.

 

-Dave

 

Dave,  it would be great to see your results here!
 

Lars



#41 Garandomatic

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 01:24 PM

Give me a few weeks on mine! I'm going to get my Stuart started right after my kids are done with football.



#42 Proud Kraut

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 01:38 PM

Give me a few weeks on mine! I'm going to get my Stuart started right after my kids are done with football.

 

...and we would like to see this project from the beginning! So why not start your step by step Stuart thread today?



#43 Garandomatic

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 01:44 PM

All in due time. All I've done is remove the shrink wrap! I might make it a father-son deal, as one of my boys liked the M3 Medium tank and I got him the model for his birthday. His name is Grant, and since the British version with their turret was the Grant, that's his favorite tank.



#44 Trebissky

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 07:06 PM

I used to see a lot of those same tips in modelling magazines.  Seems the only difference is there are more products out now specifically FOR modelling.  Done right, you CAN get some realistic effects.  The thing to remember is, when you add some of the same to the upper surfaces, imagine that you are 4 inches tall and think where YOU would step on the hull and turret, and where you wouldn't, to get to and into the hatches, or to objects stashed on the hull or turret sides.  Don't put a bunch of muck where nobody would likely stand or step, but DO put some where you'd climb up OUT of the muck.

 

Then again, there are some places and situations where you really can't tell...

 

3A2A33  B-12 sml.jpg

 



#45 Trebissky

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 03:18 PM

On the other hand, there are times when all you want is an accumulation of road dust from just getting from A to B.  Believe it or not, you can do that with nothing more than a rattlecan of spray paint.  It needs a light touch on the button and care where you aim, but I just got good results on a KV85 with a can of Rustoleum Camo Sand.

 

KV85 1dl.jpg

 

KV85 2dl.jpg

 

KV85 3dl.jpg



#46 Trebissky

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 03:27 PM

It started out with plain green, also rattlecan Italian Olive, like the JSU152 beside it.  Was WAY too shiny for anything but a museum piece, so I tried this just to see what would happen.

KV85 4dl.jpg

 

As you can see, it worked fine! 


Edited by Trebissky, 14 January 2015 - 03:37 PM.


#47 Proud Kraut

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 10:45 AM

Good result! I've heard from another modeler here at the USMF that light pink spray paint will work as well. I will test ist with the T19 definitively. BTW, what's a rattlecan, please?



#48 Jeeper704

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 11:48 AM

I think a can with metal balls in it that mix the paint when you shake it.
So it "rattles".

Erwin

#49 BROBS

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 11:56 AM

rattlecan = spraypaint

 

slang term.  ;)

-Brian



#50 Proud Kraut

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 12:26 PM

Thanks guys!




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