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GAR Sword Types


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#26 SARGE

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 07:27 AM

Gents,

 

I picked up an interesting Grand Army of the Republic (GAR) sword variation last week that I thought I would show.  It is a standard GAR sword worn by Union Civil War Veterans except it is finished in nickel instead of having brass or gilt fittings..  I have seen nickeled examples of the GAR sword belt plates but this is the first nickeled GAR sword that I have seen.

 

The US M1860 S&F style sword has a brown leather grip instead of the usual black leather or sharkskin and all sword and scabbard fittings were nickel plated prior to assembly.  The plain diamond shape blade has the pre-1883 Kirschbaum knights head logo in use prior to their merger with Weyersberg & cie. 

 

An interesting early variation of the sword that I have not seen before.

Attached Images

  • GAR nick sword.jpg.JPG
  • GAR nick hilt front.jpg.JPG
  • GAR nick blade mark.jpg.JPG


#27 kquest

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 06:14 PM

P9130169 (640x480).jpg I recently purchased this "Sons of Veterans" sword. It's not in the greatest shape, but may have potential, The engravings on blade seem to be very faint and the blade is dark. Should I attempt to clean it? If so , how. The grip, which has lost most of the black covering has some sort of twine wrapped over the flat wood. The washer is not the correct type. The scabbard is metal, but seems to be brown or black (or perhaps this is fine rust

#28 swmdo

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 09:16 PM

Interesting collection.

#29 SARGE

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Posted 30 January 2016 - 07:15 AM

attachicon.gifP9130169 (640x480).jpgI recently purchased this "Sons of Veterans" sword. It's not in the greatest shape, but may have potential, The engravings on blade seem to be very faint and the blade is dark. Should I attempt to clean it? If so , how. The grip, which has lost most of the black covering has some sort of twine wrapped over the flat wood. The washer is not the correct type. The scabbard is metal, but seems to be brown or black (or perhaps this is fine rust

 

Here is an internal link to some sword cleaning methods that may be helpful.

 

http://www.usmilitar...ion-of-a-sword/

 

I use the 51% rule of thumb on cleaning.  If there is over 50% of the current finish left I will try to refrain from removing the rest.  That is to say, if there is 75% of the original bright finish on the blade I would consider removing the 25% dark patina.  On the other hand, if the dark patina was greater (and not unattractive) I would consider leaving it alone.  This is a value judgement the collector must make that will please you.  

 

The grip is made up of a wooden dowel that is then wrapped with thick twine to make the swells.  The leather or sharkskin covering is then wet wrapped over the grip and when it dries shrinks to make outside grooves where the wire wrap can be placed.  What you are seeing is the construction where the leather covering has worn away.  The scabbard could be dark steel or the nickel plating may be worn away.  If it looks OK being dark I would consider leaving it alone if over 50%.

 

I hope this is helpful.



#30 kquest

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Posted 30 January 2016 - 02:43 PM

Hi George,
Thanks for replying to my post. Based on the photos that I sent, do you have any additional observations? I was thinking of giving the hilt a cleaning with ammonia. There seems to be a coating of black(I'm not sure what this is) on the hilt, pommel and guard especially on the inside of the guard. It almost looks like paint. Also, is there a way to restore the grip,by somehow recovering the missing leather? Or should I leave it alone. I have the proper twisted brass wire, but where would you find leather thin enough to achieve the desired affect. Given the condition of the grip, I had an idea of coating the grip with a product called "Plasti Grip" (black) to cover the exposed twine and level the coating on the grip. This is a product for putting a "rubberized" coating on the handles of pliers. The thickness can be varied by application. This would be rather unorthodox, but may actually work. Can one replace the washer with the proper thickness of leather without removing the hilt, buy simply slotting the leather and sliding it down the blade and tucking into the recess where the blade meets the guard.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards,
Ken

#31 kquest

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Posted 30 January 2016 - 05:42 PM

Hi,

Just a correction on the product name "Plasti Dip". What's nice is that if you are unhappy with the results, it can be pealed off without damaging the substrate.


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